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If its gone now, put it down to being French, if it comes back get it on a Diagnostic machine mate (handheld would do the trick if a mates got one) Just be a sensor fault.

The battery should have a clamp holding it at the bottom mate, 13mm bolt should be in it aswell. If not you need to get one. The actual clamp on the terminals are a 8mm bolt, try tightening it up a bit see if its loose.

The noise could be the belt too tight it'd make a noise when you let off the throttle. Stripped it down and slackened the tensioner more like. Just to echo what Fred said you'd have to have no arms and be blindfolded to get the timing wrong on a 1.2 16v.

Good guide Ben^^ Should be a sticky.

Nearside mirror, you'll see a little black dimple underneath. Pop the mirror backing off and the glass out you'll see it.

Can you see the cam? If so its just the E sockets you need to take out now, E12 or E14 size IIRC. Theres 10 of them 5 at the front 5 at the back either side of the cam.

Its about 25/30 n/m but I wouldn't trust a wrench to be honest. Start it by hand and spin it up till it touches the gasket, then with a ratchet you'll probably go anoter 1/4 or 1/3 of a turn (as you squash the gasket) then you'll feel it go tight, then give it a nip, done.

Get down the local scrapyard and see if you can find a mirror with one still intact, rip it out, shove it in your pocket.

When you put the new TDC loom in did you solder the wires the right way around? Take out and clean the relays terminals in the fuse box under the bonnet.

Get a mate to lift the bonnet as you pull the lever.

Any decent fully or semi synthetic 5w40 or 10w40 is fine.

Sounds like the solenoids knackered mate, which isn't moving the rod, which isn't letting you press the button in fully to open it. When you plip the key can you hear the solenoid clicking? If it is the rod might have just fallen off. If you can't hear it working, strip the tailgate trim - a...

The air circ cover on the top of the cam carrier can leak thats not a cams out job. Thats at the back it might be worth a look if its leaking - same sealant gasket. If the front area of the cam carriers leaking you may aswell wait till the belts/plenums off and do the whole lot. The Red bit in...

If your really lucky sometimes it can come up round where the bolt head is, if thats the case, remove just that bolt, gob loads of sealant around the bolt, and re-tighten. If your doing a 72K (and the inlets off, cambelts off anyway) its probably an extra half hour/hour job to re-seal the cam...

Yeah Rollo your right my bad.

No wonder you cars leaking water. The 2 drains on the sunroof frame are connected to pipes that run up the A pillars, and drain at the bottom of the car. Make sure the pipes are clear (blow compressed air down them if you can) and pushed on firmly.

The words 'Oil level' will appear regardless of what the levels at, then hit the button ont the odometer and it'll show you the level. If its just lines --- as opposed to 000s it needs topping up mate. Make sure the cars on level ground. Eg. Oil level full 00000 Oil level half full 000---...

Sealant mate stick it on and when the bits of metal are trapped together and theres no air, its dries up solid. Not very good though most of the 172/182s leaked from the factory. Technically its actually the cam carrier aswell.

Yeah thats true - if hes mentioned that hes obviously a bit clued up. Ask him more about whereabouts its leaking.

As Tom said stick the key in the drivers door, and hold it over to the left or right (can't remember) for a few seconds and all the windows drop - for the summer really.

As GUNN said theres a few bits you can do theres a turbo spring mod that keeps the boost on for a bit longer for about £2 and about 5 minutes to fit, an EGR bypass pipe aswell and you want a Pierburg MAF sensor if your going for a Rover Ron box. Some of the CDTI boys are getting 160/170 bhp and...

Nah I'm on about the tiny vac style pipes. They have a rubberised end where they push onto the sensors / turbo etc. Ones black and one is white, they run from the boost control valve to the turbo. Do you feel a massive gain in power where you normally feel the turbo cut in? Points towards the...

GUNN turbo boost pipes (tiny black ones) are common on the 1.8KTs, don't rub through or anything but even when they are a little bit flakey they can give you problems - you'd notice a lack in performance usually. Turbos an easy one on them anyway. Let me know if you want a quote although your...

Keep the plenum drains clean else your BCU will fill with water. Not cheap on CDTIs.

Wahay!!

Knackered shock?

Paha. Somethings not right there with that price. Whereabouts are you?

What was up with it mate? Whats your postcode aswell please. Pm if you want to.

What engine Nathan?

"Hi is that Renault Bristol? Yeah its Dan, these shocks seem a bit cheap, sure you've got the right price? Should be double that?"