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The aa use a company called dekra - it's cheaper to go to them direct, when I got my mr2 (London and I'm based in edinburgh), they provided a very comprehensive inspection, that said they only inspect and speculate on driveway/ roadside - no lifting, so if there's something not obvious it could...

If it has an aux it will be in back, tbf you can pick up a brand new stereo for under £50 with aux

Where have you earthed the amp? Also if uncertain most Halfords stores (bigger ones) have a test rigs for subs/amps, if you plug it in there it would eliminate whether or not the amp is at fault, just a thought

..don't need dash off to wire amp :s

I used 'hidemyass.com' when gf was in USA so I could choose my Abercrombie wardrobe ;) ,worked a treat

Can't imagine iPod drain would be sufficient enough to drain battery, but you could always identify constant supply to control box then reroute to an ignition feed (prob cig is closest), but I'd check with connects2 if that would void the warranty on the box if it's not designed to be switched

To update my fluid was really low, so topped up now. So will test tomorrow morning to see if the nice has gone

This should be the correct lead for clio 182, I presume your factory radio was tuner list and have a display up top with clock/temp. Connects2 I found were generally better as you could mis-program autoleads if you connected in wrong order. First thing I would do is unplug controls from audio...

Reckon this could be the same issue as mine? I had the pump replaced last year and all been fine, but recently some noise on first start of the day, best way to describe is that it sounds like a mini when turning, but after driving for under 30secs it disappears and doesn't sound again until the...

Change the blown fuse? Your aftermarket stero should have 2 power sources (yellow) and (red), one will be ignition and one constant. I'd imagine if your clocks not working correctly it will be constant, you will need a manual or multimeter to identify

Not got an answer, but recently I've noticed a noise from ps on start up, sounds like a rubbing noise, but once engine is warmed up it goes away. Apologies for hijacking ;), but cld these be similar? When I had a squealing noise I has pas pump replaced, and this fixed it. That was around 1year...

Bosch warranties are generally 5yr? The S4's in Halfords have 5yr gaurentee

Mind and silicone the ballast after- better being over cautious :)

Had something similar when my power steering pump failed- local specialist could diagnose for you?

Imagine straight plug and play, buy unless 2nd hand then tomtom unit I presume will be a lot more expensive than standalone - any ideas how much it was as an upgrade option on new?

H1 bulbs only have 1 connector and h7 have 2- so depends on the wiring on the new headlight as what would fit the connector, I'm sure the h7 has a '+' and '-', and the h1 is just '+' as the bulb earths off the housing,

Thought dubmeister done road legal ones? Never seen the fascination with them, but each to their own

+1 for rentec, I've got them to do all my 'specialist work' - dephaser/belts/ water pump/ power steering pump- always been spot on, really great guys

Only reason I was for the manufacture warranty as the only new-ish car I got was from a dealer. Still under 3yr warranty frm Arnold Clark, had a weird knocking noise and was persistent in taking it back to them- turns out the crankshaft or something was undersized? - anyway got brand new engine

...also washers aren't an mot requirement for xenons unless the schooshers are fitted, alternatively you could just fit blanks? (Can't work out how to edit last post on phone - noob lol)

1*2's with xenons have washer bottle with 2 pumps- one for screens and one for lights, presume you will need these to retrofit. Not sure if it's a simple plug/play job or if the connector will be set aside somewhere for models not requiring them

They're rubbish, i got free cover from 2nd hand dealer when i got my 182. After looking on forum after I bought the car i realised my dephaser was knocking, so contacted them (warranties 2000) and told they would not cover until the pulley failed. But got the so called 'cover' for free so...

multimeter on ballasts may explain this - at least this would be my first thing to check

need to either cut connectors off and wire '+' & '-', or buy adapter that plugs into existing connector and has '+' & '-' wires to attach - Autoleads PC2-805 (http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/autoleads-pc2805-renault-speaker-adaptor-lead-p-26982.html#.Usi4xbT_ke0)

can reach behind radio from glovebox side, then pop astray out and pull cables through - no need to dismantle dash

mounts?

^^this, parrot is ISO wiring (if fitted correctly), just plug and play with new stereo- as long as no subs/amps being fitted at same time

Sorry got a shoehorn in cracker - useless ;)

mines started off slow, made some noise on start up for ages, then started squealing when turning wheels, then got really bad and loud, so replaced. Wasn't a cheap job as I can't do it myself so took it to my local specialists, but at least you know its quality workmanship. Think it was a good...

If I get a small measuring tape in my Christmas cracker I will bear the cold and measure for you - hopefully someone will provide a more helpful answer before then ;)