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yeah but with a D60 I don't you can't use the camera pop up flash as a "Commander" like you can on D200 etc so you'll need to get wireless triggers (~£14 off ebay) or a flash sync cable.
Yeah, I've to go to M Sport tomorrow as I'm doing some work for them. Not sure where I'll be on Saturday yet, probably in Comb somewhere. Today's pics were on the way back from a test of a new lightweight Evo 9 with a sequential box, it flew :eek:
by cropping the top and the bottom of the image?
A friend of mine has had 20D/30D/40D, the 40D is by far the better camera he said. If you're considering changing just for the extra mega pixies then don't bother unless you're planning on print at 15ft x 10ft.
I disagree with that, I know you probably won't be aware but that house is a well known landmark in Manx rallying and I think including it has added to the composition - I've never seen a shot like that before, usually the cottage forms a static background for shots coming round the nearby...
There's many people who've been photographing rallying for years who struggle when it gets dark - it's a whole different technique to daytime pics so don't feel too bad!
Service area pic is good.
It's pretty hard to get decent night pics without a flashgun, pop-up flashes just don't have the power so unless the car is very close you get mainly darkness.
Are you out watching again tomorrow?
Have you got an external flash Sarah? You'll need to be very close to the action if not (eg inside of Brandywell hairpin) and use the pop-up flash. Not using a flash is only any good for light trail type pics at rallies as you generally don't have much else in the way of light source (you'd have...
It's best to start at a higher shutter speed to begin with and get a nice smooth action sorted. Then work down the shutter speeds from there.
As someone else had said, it's easier to get good panning effects with a longer lens too.
I wish I knew how to produce something like that on photoshop, it would've saved me having to learn how to use my camera/flash and how to balance the light :S
Cheers, and thanks for telling me about the location!
A good spot if you're doing any more post-apolyptic stuff is an old military place near Kilnsea, down the coat from Scarborough near the Humber. It's all fallen apart due to coastal erosion but that just adds to the location in my opinion...
Yeah, the train was full of people! So we headed up the hill instead.
Here's some, did a few quick ones straight off the camera as the subject wanted to see a few earlier.
Did some shots there yesterday, it's a good location for portraits shoots. We were going to do some on the train but unfortunately it was in use! Did a few in Peasholm Park and down the coast at Kilnsea too :D
If neither of you have experience of model photography it'd be a good idea to print off some sample poses from the interweb to use for ideas.
Don't know what gear you have but use off camera lighting if you can.
If you haven't got a reflector try and get a car windscreen sun reflector thing...
It's easier to use the balancing ambient light/flash method as already suggested twice than to faff around with multiple exposures and HDR. HDR gives you fake looking images anyway in the majority of cases.
Have a read of some of the stuff on Strobist about balancing ambient/flash light, dialing in some exposure compensation should help matters.
Can you use the external flash remotely, that might help too, direct it at a different angle to what you are shooting.
Or failing that carry a curtain...
why a low F stop? if you used a high F stop then you wouldn't have so much trouble getting sharp pics as you'd have a lot more depth of field to play with. Also, take a torch to assist with focus, whether it be manual or AF.
Nice pics anyway though!