Search results

Key in the ignition and turned on but not running - what is the little red LED doing: Flashing at 1Hz/4Hz/Solid On?

It'll be an SMI

We charge £380inclussive of VAT

Age, the pressure plate just gets old but it doesn't stop them functioning.

I always tell people that the clutches aren't supposed to be heavy. Let me fit a new one for you and you'll put your foot thru the floor at first press!

You can't on any Retina MBP product. Same is true for the Mac Mini's from 2012 onward as it's all on the logic boards. I still find this possibly the most annoying thing about Apple ownership

It's not quite that simple, you need to configure the Light and Rain sensor options but if you have one and it's plugged in the UCH will see it and turn your Serv light on to warn you of a configuration error

the ADAC is going out so it's 100% nothing to do with the Imob or the key. This needs a proper diagnostic session i'm afraid but you should check all the earths first of all to be sure these aren't poor or broken.

i can't comment on cruise but I suspect it'll be linked to the boot issue. The wiring will be slightly different as the early Ph1-B cars had an actual boot switch where as the Ph2 had it built in to the lock mech.

D

it is true, secretly I long for the Valleys

Unlikely to be the sensor but another fault as its passing the post checks. I'd guess a wheel target is damaged/cracked

Don't use Chrome, it's not 64bit and eats battery

Close, a flashing EML indicates potential for damaging the CAT

Copper washers don't work with cast sumps, as above, go with the rubber item.

My Cup was doing this to... New injector on No.3 resolved it. I've got a new set coming now as the others can't be far behind.

But it's clearly up for £16,000 and whilst we have seen a couple of £10k Williams sell this year I suspect this may be a typo.

Is it defaulting to the Windscreen position to? If so, as already above, this is why it's going full r****d

Thats how it works i'm afraid and they all do exactly this.

Start by looking for broken wires, searching this site for other people that have had similar issues.

There's your issue then... comms fault on CAN

Why go to the effort with the K4M for 110-130hp when the F4R is cheaper, far more available and gives 166-175hp

Key in the ignition, turn it on (but don't start the car). Does the red LED go out or stay on?

If there was an issue with the comms the car wouldn't start. As the vehicle is starting the ECU is obviously communicating via CAN so I think the issue is software related with your diag kit.

Take the PCB out of the key and check the buttons are still attached to the PCB first of all. Then try pressing them and if they click the problem is most likely wear to the plastic buttons on the key itself rather than the actual micro-switches

It is only instant if you add it to your networks and then prioritise it. Then your devices will use it over other networks automatically if they are unavailable. @Ben- Yeah that's how mine is functioning (now) but I thought it would at least pull the contents of my current SMS on the iPhone...

It will most likely require a new UCH which isn't cheap.

How do you resync a paired key? It's not a rolling code like days of old. If the spare is also doing it then it is most likely a UCH fault.

Ben, has it sycnd all of your SMS messages in iMessage on your MBP or only the ones you've recieved since turning on message share?

New key