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4200k as per OEM, anything colder gives less light and makes you look like a c**k IMHO.

Don't think I've ever fitted a genuine radiator and tbh with Renault prices being regularly in excess of vw and audi I'll not be going near a dealership.

This seems to fit the bill for instance: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-KUBISTAR-RENAULT-CLIO-KANGOO-LOGAN-THALIA-RADIATOR-NEW-2-YEAR-WARRANTY-/271177909067?fits=Model%3AClio|Cars+Type%3A2.0+16V+Sport&hash=item3f2376834b:g:GyAAAOxykmZTMUUn But will it explode :P

The rad in my 172 track car looks a little ropey so in order to ensure continued reliability I'd like to swap it over the winter. Which rads and from where have people used before? I dont want to buy one and have it blow its tanks! Cheers

I've never really 'got' the whole stud thing tbh, unless you're rallying and need to do wheel changes in a proper hurry I really cant see any advantage and I've yet to see a wheel bolt fail

Fair enough, just didnt want to wreck the CV boot! Why cant they just drop in like every other car ever! Kev and I were congratulating the french and mr Cook when the springs went on without compressors and then cursing when they wouldnt go into place!

I've got both sides up and no struts on it, the dampers look about 3" too long, even leaning on everything I can barely get it in above the CV boot.

So yesterday I tried to fit my cooksport springs, managed to assemble the spring and topmount onto the dampers without the need for spring compressors (as usual with lowering springs) but I can't get them onto the car as the ARB seems to hold the hub too high. Are they really this long that I...

Also consider two things if it's mainly a road car: 1) the R90 spec and it's effect on the regs (http://www.juratek.com/about-r90.php) The police and insurance companies are getting fairly hot on checking this after an accident. 2) Squeal, lots of pads (Carbon Loarraine inparticular use crap...

I have the 830s on my bora and really like them

Ag Agree ish. They will in snow, but not in the wet which is what we get most of. I'd rather run new rainsports than budget winters in 5 degrees and rain personally. The point is however that much like summer tyres, buy decent ones as the price margin is tiny compared to the possible...

Have you got a link to that kit? This one? http://gtechniq.com/products/auto/perfect/exterior/paint/g1-and-g4-clearvision-screen-kit

I've always used RainX, but open to suggestions if G5 is easier/better? Where do you get it and whats it like to apply?

Go and read some reviews online for quantifiable comparisons. They're tyres and just like summer tyres, remoulds are s**t, as are almost all budget tyres. Personally, I got some continental TS830s for my car from outgoing stock last year for about half what they should have been and recently...

And so it begins..... Nice car!

So you swapped a fairly decent looking 03 mazda for a £300 yelow MG? Nice work.

Apparently I must be the only one who doesn't!

I love the fact that they used a completely different block to allow for the torque converter, no none of the manual boxes fit. I saw a thread where I guy did a manual conversion by swapping the complete block IIRC. Fingers crossed it holds together nicely, epic car as long as trouble stays away.

Very nice cars, remember when they first came out and they were one of the few properly mental Q-cars, the last being the B5 RS4....

I run them for wets on track and did a good few road miles on them too and have no complaints other than being a bit soft in the sideall for hardcore track use as it dries.

Just dont do huge track stints, 10 laps and a break or whatever and it will probably be fine. Its heat that kills both the oil and as a result the engine.

I just wonder how they got it so wrong from the factory! 20mm wheel spacers are never good, for anything!

It depends on mileage and convenience. I have a diesel bora and a clio track car and the clio was great fun on the road, but not for 30k miles a year, and also not for short journeys as fixed buckets, harnesses and no central locking made it a pain to nip places in (almost as much of a pain as...

Went for this in the end http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161716171116?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Comma MS5L 5L Motorsport Fully Synthetic 5W50 Motor Oil and then a genuine filter to go with it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22-21-Bosch-Aerotwin-Retro-Front-Wiper-Blades-Genuine-Aero-Flat-Qf5-/350947566982?fits=Car+Make%3ARenault&hash=item51b61ae586 ordered these

Cool, track car anyway, as long as I can see the braking zone at the end of the main straight at a ton Im happy! Will get them ordered

I have them on my bora and with cleaning, theyve lasted happily for 60k miles now which is why i want them again, just wanted to make sure they would fit, and not lift off the screen due to the stupid wiper linkage layout on the clio. Cheers

Do conventional RHD ones work correctly with the stupid french linkage on the clio? I'm concerned the whole spoiler shape will point the wrong way? Also, does the clio have normal hook ends on the arms? Im looking at these...

It's not insured for road use so solely on track from now on. I'm less fussed about brands and more about grades, everyone will have their own brand loyalty, but do people tend to go for a heavier oil or not and if so, which grade? Cheers

What grade Cub? I've seen it suggested to run a slightly heavier grade, 10w50 or similar rather than the standard manufacturers recommendation which is 10w40 isnt it?