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If its never had belts its kong overdue. It really needs timjng belt kit, water pump and aux kit http://www.diamondmotors.net/pricing/fixed-price-servicing-timing-belts

Faulty IACV is my first guess.

Ignore the data, it's most likely wrong as they never show 0% at idle or 100% at WOT

You sorted the ESP issue I see (or deleted the light lol).

No bother at all. We are moving very soon though so the world as I know it is in a mess

Re: Spare Key Transponder > Car Alarm / Immobiliser / Central Locking Interaction Pro *Some* new keys (when ordered to VIN) come pre-coded but *most* require access to the vehicles secure coding section via CLIP to tell the car to allow the key. Self coding keys they said... that's properly secure

Sounds like it but increase engine speed to 2k rpm and if the noise vanishes that's confirmation of the pulley

If Ange could hear you speak like this she'd kick your ass

Best thing to really do is have it looked at properly before resorting to gypsy-esk solutions trying to resolve something that may not actually be your problem.

Jesus, is it that low now JB or is it just the mountains that are called speed calming measures around you?

I like that as it's close to the in laws

Quick s**t drawing for you...

No, it's routed wrong and is very common on the 172 Cup. Belt goes from the top of the crank pulley under the water pump pulley not over it then over the alternator and PAS pump.

Belt is on wrong... very common

Most likely cause is a fuel pressure issue or EGR fault.

Hi Beth, sorry to hear you're having problems. We can't give you a definitive answer on this i'm afraid without seeing the vehicle but it sounds like either a crank sensor or H02 issue. I'd recommend you take it somewhere other than the place it went to before for a proper diagnostic session...

Hard to say without a strip down but odds are on either over-revved or a bearing failure (due to years of neglect). Could've even been Foreign Object Damage such as part of the drive shaft spider rollers or some other crap in the oil.

Yeah that's fucked! New box required i'm afraid.

Yep

CLIP takes its readings from the ECU data in order to plot these graphs. Whilst a picture paints a thousand words the volumes these screen shots speak aren't 100% accurate. Ideally you need to repeat these tests with a scope on the pedal tracks as these spurious signals may be a direct result...

I have one myself with both options (Silenced/Un-Silenced mid sections) and I love it. A properly designed piece of equipment that I've had on and off the car several times. It doesn't leak, properly designed joints and it sounds amazing. Silenced mid option results in 81dB static and the...

It's made me think about looking for either a Gripper or Quaife ATB a whole lot more seriously Gray

Halfords list it as "EP75W-80" which IF a Comma EP75W-80 is designed for use in Renault & Peugeot/Citroen boxes. It's also listed as a mineral GL4 rather than a GL4+ but it should still be okay in your JC5 Comma EP75W-80 gear oil

***Completely wrong Mick, ignore this post please (or Admin delete)***

Yes as it meets GL4+ but either a synthetic or a mineral will do the job (however synthetic are a little more stable than mineral oils and have a higher film strength).

That's correct then, the U/S sensor should switch from rich to lean where the D/S should remain stable. And the MAP value?

And what does the live data seem to say?

It's fine but as it's a GL4 it won't last forever so change it after a few years.

They make the steering feel great don't they Pat?

Any idea when this is likely to take place yet? I'm away for most of April and whilst I'm not the guest of honour i'd like to turn up and meet some of you