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Personally I'd take it to RS Tuning to - They will do the job right using the correct tools and that's what matters. Incorrectly timed cars don't show up as faulty unless they're massively wrong yet a few minutes of inaccuracy can royally rape the cars power overall. Experience counts for a...

Chinese clone "CLIP" or genuine? be honest ;)

We don't "charge" specifically for diagnostics as code reading rarely tells you anything. We do however charge £40+VAT for an hours work and if we have to use CLIP in that hour then so be it... if we have to use other tools as well then that's also included. Mick

I can give you an example of something on that side with the aux belt that could cause it to lose compression... Belt shreads and enters the timing case. This slips the timing and bends the valves... no compression! You need to perform a compression test first of all and then possibly a timing...

Well there's at least two issues posted above which will give you various issues the main ones being the CAN faults. Then there's the SAS fault to which is a basic input required by the ESP program to be able to do its job. Apply the MPN conformity tests and come back.

Renault don't normally know how to use there own equipment. Unless it's an RTE I wouldn't trust them to resolve the issue. Send me some pics of the car and your location. We may be able to deal here

I can't comment without seeing the test results of a CAN test but i'm so confident that I can fix this that IF you bought it in and I can't fix it, i'd pay the transportation costs for you. I love the term "Professional" as it covers all multitudes of sin. I'm a professional misserable fucker...

Shame it never came in, I'm confident I can fix this in a couple of hours tops

Not really, it's telling you there's something not right when the wheels are turning. If diags are showing no fault codes your next port of call is scope testing each wheel sensor at the sensors and the again at the ABS ECU to see if there is any inconsistency.

You need the later S3000 I'm afraid and that won't work with your CAN

Too much for me with that work required and then there's the unknown.

If you want to book in for August I advise you do it sooner rather than later as I've got x2 customers i'm awaiting confirmation from for the 1st

What version ABS is on the vehicle (it's on a little white sticker) and did you confirm it was actually outputting a speed signal? In fact, are you sure you've wired it right?

If you knew enough you'd already have checked it out with a probe or DMM (or know Red is live and black is earth) but, anyway let's not start that... Red - +5v Black - Gnd Brown - Coded line to UCH

They will only go together one way so make note of the orientation and look for the tab

Fronts are up under the rear section of the arch liner but can be gotten to by moving it out the way (Don't pull the cable as the connector is clipped to the body) and the rears are on the underside of the vehicle near the rear beam. In both cases though just follow the wires

Do you have the ABS module? If so I guess yes as you can graph other parameters. A picture tells a thousand words as they say.

Why faff about lifting it up? Just plug it in and graph the wheel speed signals whilst going for a drive. Any issues will be obvious.

Are you sure it only occurs on turning in a corner Tom? If so it's highly unlikely to be an ABS ring fault (as they're always spinning whilst the vehicle is moving). Start by checking the car over for the clunk then plug it in.

ECU and ABS both play a part in this systems operation

In a race can go either way depending on setup. I used to pull the lump but on a lift the subframe off is faster

Poor continuity more likely.

Jesus, isn't that a pretty rare colour on a Ph1?

I also remove the gear linkage rod to stop the subframe damaging it if it drops

I thought Euro CATs were ceramic internally

Even if you have access to another UCH it will help. Fit it, watch the ADAC LED flash at 1hz indicating immob is active then insert the key. If it flashes at 4hz it is saying the key has been read and is not authorised on your vehicle proving that the setup on your car is functioning.

Will most likely be incorrect belt tension on a manual tensioner. Rookie mistake

Engine out and on the floor is 2.5-3hrs work. Makes the belt job easy aswell as the box swap. A decent box used will be £200-250... I'd say fix it

The cars are generally very reliable but the UCH is an expensive piece of kit but I'd try and get it properly diagnosed to save off spending money on the wrong thing.

You've given it Earth, +5v and are pretty certain the coded line is continuous with the UCH. I've only ever seen 2 barrels fail in nearly 15yrs so my money is on the UCH