Search results

As before, without plugging it in to some proper equipment you will not know. A proper CLIP diagnostic should really be your first port of call here.

That needs a session on CLIP to come anywhere close to answering this question.as it could be anything steering or ABS related.

Have you considered that it may actually be the UCH at fault?

If it has BERU coils then it's unlikely as they're bomb proof.

*maybe* with a remap you will.see.a gain of 5-8hp but how much of that is down to the remap vs the gas flow is negligible. You deffo won't notice it though other than when the EML is on due to the H02 efficiency check failing and at MOT time when you need a dodgy test.

I have an idea of what is wrong but it needs a specific piece of equipment plugging in and road testing to confirm.

And now for the good news... After all that effort you will notice nothing!

Needs looking at then I'm afraid. Pop it in if you like as Wakefield isn't too far away from us.

TBH Chip, from what I've seen of one dealerships effort recently they'd just think it was standard

Fitted a set to @The_Russians phase 1 and it made 178hp on standard inlet with a nice torque curve. If you can get them for a good price I rate them as a cheaper alternative but they can cause confusion at belt change time due to the non-standard setup required.

It can be done without pulling the engine but it's tight and the pipe itself is pricey. I would say 3hrs work.

The equipment will do the job yes.

Take it somewhere with genuine dealer level equipment and have them run a network test. 99.9% it will return a fail on a comms line so once you know which it'll be an easy enough fix. The trick is taking it to someone that knows what they're doing with both the cars and the equipment.

Raise car on lift Look at job Decide to "f**k that" Lower car Go to pub and use free wifi to find an unknowing garage to do it for a fixed fee.

Not really "top secret" as it's not that difficult to work out where the crossover point would be just by looking at some after market cam specs however I believe Mike Woodford has done a fair bit of work developing the advances with standard and 197 units so I can understand why Mike doesn't...

It's not a straightforward swap no but I really liked them in mine and the noise... I swear the induction note changes to give more of a roar with the 197 units installed.

Thanks for the helpful insight and i'll be sure to write that down

Cleaned the TB? Had it on Diags? Sounds like either a Lambda or CTS issue

When allowed to cool properly does it start?

You may as well be banging your head against a brick wall chap as the imobilliser doesn't work that way. What is your actual problem?

Apologies but as i dont know the car lets start simples... Has anything work wise, specifically belt related been done recently?

Or ignore my suggestion and use your Jedi skills to connect to the vehicles numerous computers to identify parameter values that aren't quite right, do carry on.

197 + "Fast"... Actual LoLz Seriously though, if you suspect it's not running right why not have it looked at properly?

Easy enough but you will need a few small screw drivers to undo the press tabs that hold it firmly in place.

That's one of our regulars who lives in Leicester (Nick)

Yeah completely agree as they're like £60 for a good one or £40ish for a piece of shite white box/refurbished part.

They are different iirc

Just man up and pull!

Trust me, they are 100% not coded and yeah I've done one or two in my day to day job before. Turning lights are activated when the steering when is turned beyond 15° either way and the dipped beam is on. To see if you have them just turn the lights on and turn the wheel... If they come on then...

No they aren't coded but you need to make sure you get the right version as some have turning lights and others don't... Obviously if you have these lights you need the adequate UPC