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You cant compare a MkII Ph1 Clio TB to a MkV Golf as they are completely different technologies. Have you plugged it in to diagnostics and viewed the live data channel or an oscilloscope and confirmed that the TPS is ranging correctly?
That's not overly scientific i'm afraid - You need to do some more work to check these where having a DMM to hand will be of great use. If you have one handy give me a call on the business line and i'll try to walk you thru it.
Mick
Okay stop... If it's flashing the "STOP" Inside the engine light the you have a Level 2 failure... normal cause is actuator relay control. The problem is most likely the small black relays them self but can also be broken wiring in the loom itself.
The K9K units function on volume rather than oil pressure. I believe you need 300ml of oil from the return in 60secs of idle.
Has the oil feed been changed? Done a few lately that I'm writing a report for the website on it.
I'd go as high as £1400 but anymore and I'd sooner have a nice Williams.
Just remember it's 23yrs old - The paint will not be as good as you think it is in the pics.
Not all of it no just the aux belt but... take it back and see what they say as it may not be the pump.
By law whoever did it must provide warranty on the job they've done covering parts and labour for 12months. If it's something to do with the job they've done they should be fixing it free of...
He is deffo bidding it up. Spoke to him and he's said it's going nowhere for less than £1650
I want it but I'm not handing that money over without seeing it and he's a HUGE trek from me... kinda puts me off. He also mentioned it smokes on the phone
You've got two choices here:
Hit the plugs with a breaker bar or impact gun and hope they free without bringing the thread.
Replace the head.
If they do bring the thread you can timesert the plug Wells but the head should still be removed to do so.
Normally the sensor clips on to a bracket which is screwed to the A-pillar.
To remove the sensor just insert a small flat blade screwdriver into the pivot point and lever it a bit to allow the pivot point to pop clear.
Are you after a scientific/physical measurement? The smallest dribble is all that would be needed, just use common sense... you won't break anything just make smeared marks on the edge.
Are you sure they're rounded? Either my glasses or s**t or your autofocus is.
If they are rounded then yes, head off. If it's you using the wrong socket, plonka.
Subframe captive nuts (18mm) or the supplementary brackets that tie the Subframe to the floor (13mm)?
I'm guessing you mean the supplementary brackets in which case you are gonna have to either drill them out or forget to put them back on.