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yup, as above you can buy it concentrated from the likes of halfords or a motor factor.

thanks, I knew you could run it fine with just water but wanted to check if there was any difference in the cooling properties.

How should you bleed the coolant sytem on a valver? Should you just run the engine with the expansion cap off and the bleed nipple on the raditor open? or just run it with the cap off and then after it gets up to temperature open the bleed nipple till coolant runs out? I just want to make...

Just a quick question. I had always pressumed you would be OK to use just water in an engine for cooling during the summer months when it doesn't drop below freezing, but will the car run any hotter like this? or should you always have coolant in anyway, even if it won't drop below freezing...

certainly looks odd compared to the other side, but I'm not totally sure of the rear brake setup mate. Try asking over at retro-renault.com - best place for tech advice on mk1's along with williamsclio.

It'll almost definately be the column if theres play in the steering wheel - just get it welded, will only be about £30 - the price he gave you probably included as brand new column which would be well over £100 iirc. The anti-roll bar linkage is also very common on clios, my 1.4 failed it's...

as 16_jon says. Theres no way it should be around the £1000 mark - wherever you went to probably just didn't want to do the job.

Has anyone got any opinions on THIS laptop. It looks to be a really good spec, but I'm not sure of what sort of reputation NEC laptops have? If anyone could let me know if they know anything about them it would be a massive help.

Actually, having had another look at that acer website rory put up - they seem much better than the dell prices.

Thought I would bump this back for any more suggestions. Budget has now been bumped up to £600. I'm considering a Dell laptop I saw in the paper though, THIS one. Although it's shown as £725 it would be £549 with the standard one year service package.

How long have you held your license? Once you have had you license for a year insurance prices come down by loads!!! Quotes I was getting for teh 1.4 dropped from about £1800 to £800 when I had had my license a year (that without any ncb, just having had it a year)

I would also say corsa, the windows are too curved for it to be a clio. The windows are the only way of telling though tbh as everything else is changed.

all valver shocks are exactly the same mate.

With 1 year NCB you will definately get it for sub £1000 if you look around whatever your age. I'm getting quotes on a valver (1 group higher than an RSi) of about £1150 TPFT and I'm 18 with no NCB. Try the likes of Elephant, Bell etc for a start.

I'm not overly keen on the Mk3, but it does look rather tasty there. I still hope they bring out a V6 like the one phoyoshopped HERE, looks amazing imo.

I know it's not going to be the best around at that price, but I want to make sure I get the best I can for the money. I'll have a look at the sites above, thanks.

What would you suggest? I just need to find the best possible spec laptop for £500 or £550 that is made by a company with a good reputation so that it's not going to be breaking etc.

At 1st glance - you won't tell the difference, lol. I'm not totally sure but I think the willy starter motor is different and the willy has strengthening veigns on the block. I'm not all that sure though so I'll let someone else advise you. It's as they are so similar that loads of people...

wouldn't advise it as the wiring etc would probably be a pig. Best bet IMO if you don't want a valver or willy engine would be to go for an RSi lump. IIRC they do 0-60 in about 8.3 secs and are supposed to be fairly torquey. Wiring will just be plug and play and you could re-use the gearbox...

mm, do the teeth match up to a toothed pulley or anything? (in the way the timing belt does) if not then it could still slip, but if it does then it wouldn't slip unless the belt was totally buggered

should have said as well, when does it squeek?

tbh I don't really know about the belts on the 1.4 - never had to do anything with them. I didn't realise the aux belt had teeth, but if it does then the cause would have to be the PAS one as theres no way the aux belt could slip. As I say though I'm not too sure about the belts, just going...

good to hear you got it sorted. I didn't even think of the tyre pressures when you mentioned your problems, but now it seems like the most obvious thing, lol.

probably was the wheel nuts then. Also, if your rears had too much pressure that could explaing your crap handling in the wet, with the back kicking out etc.

doubt it would be the shocks. Check the wheels and also check all the exhaust mounts and see how much clearance the exhaust has over the rear axle as it can often catch there and cause a knocking noise.

check your wheels are tight, not joking either as this happend to me once even though they had been properly torqued up and it caused a knocking noise. Did you hit anything when you spun, even lightly?

If you wwant to lower it 55mm it seems to be the case that you need to be running 15's with low profile tyres, so 16's would scrub like a b**ch.

Looks good mate. As said above all Mk1's tend to have heavy clutches. What's up with the steering column?

that didn't take long to get rid!!! Out of interest mate how much did you get for it, incase I decide to sell the 16v? and who was it who bought it, presumming it was someone off here from what you said?

I'm not sure about this either, was going to post about it. However, I know youre not to use copper grease as it's not really a lubricant, more an anti-seize grease.