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my local halfords didn't have any when I was looking for one and I got mine from Makro. I've only used it the once but at least I now have it incase I need it again.

yup, theres a lot more than just the box needed so you would be as well looking for one thats already a manual.

stangely I've never seen a valver on the road, but I've seen two or three williams. They are uber rare around here tbh.

in what way did he "f**k the torsion bar" then? he may not have been able to complete the job or something, but by saying the fucked the torsion bar it sounds as though he has actually damaged the torsion bar. Also, was this on a clio or another car? afaik the torsion bar is a bit more difficult...

Ignore those comments wilky - it's piss easy to do on a valver, and loads on here have done it themselves. The main problem is that the torsion bars could be seized, and this might be the reason it wasn't lowered at the back in the first place. Tbh I can't see how you could possibly end up...

If it's the exact same then it will make life a lot easier as you can use the same gearbox, loom, mounts and driveshafts. Not totally sure about the ECU as I heard someone say something about the later ones being coded to the engine in some way - that may well be b****cks though and your...

get an impact wrench!!!! I got a cheapy one for £10 and it did the trick perfectly. I went for that instead of the 21mm swan neck spanner because I just couldn't get a 21mm swan neck spanner anywhere. Saves a lot of hassle as well as it only takes seconds with an impact wrench.

My 1.4 is too low for the trolley jack, but i just use the standard renault jack to get it a couple of inches higher then use the trolley jack. Saves you a bit of money, and tbh only takes an extra 30 seconds anyway.

well, using a voltmeter across the pins of the loom connector when cranking I was getting 0.1v. IIRC there was no voltage when it wasn't cranking. I would have thought that if it had the voltage as you described then the injector would constantly be firing??

As some of you may have seen I am having a right ballache with the valver. Basically the car will not start and the reason for it is that the injectors are not firing. I have checked the voltage at the injectors and they are only getting about 0.1v to the injectors. I have checked as many...

good work fellas. Had somehow missed this thread but good to finally see the engine in place and close to getting started. Love the look from the front where you can spy a little something lurking behind the bumper.

I'm not sure of the exact exten of the headwork mate - just that it can give good gains of about 10 bhp+ if done correctly. If you ask in teh technical questions section some people with a bit more knowledge about it will be able to tell you.

This happend with my car and I had to change the hub and the bearing as it was muching through a wheel bearing in 1000 miles - never had any problem since I changed the hub.

Not totally my cup of tea tbh, but has potential - pity it's a 5 door. If itwas me I would get rid of the lexus lights and probably put some black wheels on there. As for the engine side of things have you had any headwork done to it? These engines respond pretty well to headwork and and with...

no, you need to check the spacing between the bolts that attach the strut to the hub. IIRC the RSi is 54mm, but I would double check that as I'm not totally sure. Valvers come with 54mm bolt spacing but the 1.2s/1.4s can come with either 52mm or 54mm so you really need to have that check to...

very nice pics. I have to say that I'm really liking that corrado, looks awesome imo.

I'll have to keep an eye out for you mate, I live just up the road from HW in currie.

Mk2 clios don't have torsion bars, only Mk1's have torsion bars. If you want to lower the car you need to get lowering springs. Any sets for a Mk2 clio will come with 4 lowering springs so you have some for front and back.

really they just don't seem to handle the power, and the diff circlip always seems to pop. That is the main reason that the JC5 (williams box) is a better box because it doesn't have a diff circlip iirc.

As long as they are looked after properly they seem to last a good while. I think I've heard of a few of them making it over the 200k mark. The real weakness of these cars is the gearbox.

I'm in edinburgh. Btw if you're looking for a clio I might be selling the 1.4 pretty soon. Drop me a PM if you want more details.

If you go over to williamsclio.co.uk and do a search for williams technical guide or something similar you should find a link somewhere to a pdf guide for teh williams which has all the torque settings etc in there. If you can't find it doing a search just put a post up on their and I'm sure...

haha, I'm not going to go into that much. Basically the 1.4 isn't insured and the 16v keeps going wrong. I had my dads mondeo with me instead.

lol, thought so. I work there and just caught a glimpse of you as you were going out the door but wasn't totally sure it was you - then saw eviljohns car go past the front a minute later so knew it probably was, lol.

about time ;) Nice to see your that close to getting it sorted. btw, were you in jjb at hermiston gate today dave? in eviljohns car? ;)

samg1988 - yours could be either 52mm or 54mm. The only way to be 100% sure is to go out and measure it. Turn the wheel onto full lock and you should be able to get in beind the wheel to meaure the gap between the two bolts that hold the strut to the hub. Make sure you measure it accurately...

yup, I was going to say that batman. My 1.4 was always a total b**ch for understeer in the wet, but usually not too bad in the dry. What tyred you have can make a big difference. When I had the 15's on with s**t tyres the understeer was much worse in the wet than with the 13's.

After some recent work on the car (just did a compression test and changed the oil and oil filter) the car has decided not to start. It is sparking as usual but the injectors are not firing and no fuel is getting into the cylinders. Every now and then when it's turning over you will hear one of...

You could easily enough get some lowering springs for about £20 if you go second hand mate. No point in cutting corners when it's only going to cost that much for a proper set imo.

some common problems seem to be gearbox, steering column (play in the wheel, but can be welded), rusty rear arches and sills. Can't think of too much else other than the usual things to check just now, but get the feeling I've missed a couple of things out. As has been said the engines...