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Hope you get lucky with the track rod ends, when I had to do one it came off in about 30 seconds - but you could end up there for hours. From what I can see in the pic though it doesn't look too badly rusted.

Is it just a turbo F7P? or another turbo engine?

as above it's not totally my taste as I just don't go for bodykits tbh and prefer more subtle mods. However, it looks like a nice clean car you've got there and the main thing is that you like it - it's your car so I wouldn't give a s**t what anyone else thinks. Are you thinking of turboing...

It'll vary quite a bit depending on what engine it is. If it's an F7R/P (as your avatar) then the timing belt is a right bugger due to restricted space.

£400

I'm in Edinburgh, got a Naples red 1.4 RT and 1.8 16v. moogster_1 - are you ever up currie way? I've seen a 172 exclusive parked at the end of my street a few times, but thats the only one I've ever seen in Edinburgh.

What engine are you planning on putting in Maxx? As has been said before a JB1 can pretty much handle valver power so I wouldn't worry about that as your first move.

It's quite a common problem, but I'm not sure if it means it needs replaced or not tbh.

no, afraid not mate. What kind is it your looking for - 1.2/1.4/3dr/5dr etc, and I can keep an eye out. I might be selling my 1.4 in a while but would be wanting more than £300, and the way things are going I still don't know if I'll keep that or the 16v.

Can happen quite easily I think. Are you getting yourself a Mk1 mate? (aka leaving the darkside ;))

^^^ Thats for a Mk2 though mate. What exactly has happend? Has the cable snapped?

Though I better make that clear as I had put try instead of turn before. EDIT: I got that wrong again - but sorted now, lol

lol, I live in Edinburgh so I know the feeling. Where abouts in scotland are you based mate?

If anyone talks about clicks - ignore them. You can use that method but if you do it means you can only raise/lower it by about 20mm incriments, whereas in reality you can raise/lower it in 3mm incriments. What to do is remove the torsion bar, using a jack raise the rear hub till it's at the...

looking spot on mate, wish my 16v was that mint :(

165/65/13 Avon tyres. TBH the tyres on the steelies are better than those on the 15's in the wet, I get nowhere near as much understeer when gunning it.

This is how mine is at the moment (though on steelies now) and it doesn't feel anywhere near as bad as yours - so it sounds as though there might be more to it. Best bet would be to try raising it and just see if it's any better .

There is no brake bias valve on the 1.4. I've had mine lowered more at the back than the front for months and I've yet to have the rear end kick out on me. It does feel slightly more twitchy at the rear, but not to the extent you have described. It might be worth raising it little to see how...

I'm not sure how low you can go on 16's, but have a look HERE for how to do the torsion bar. If you are able to do the truts youself you will definately manage the torsion bar.

fair enough, I couldn't remember if it was just the pullies that failed or if the cams did as well. I just spotted them cheap (about £30 with 6 hours to go) and thought it would be worth checking.

I've heard a lot about the pullies failing on these - but are the cams themselves OK usually? It's just as there are some up on ebay at the moment near me going quite cheap. The other issue is that they are for a williams, but would they be OK in the 1.8 16v?

Freds number - 07769 712624 Just took it from their website.

I was about to say the same, but I would avoid the valver box (JB3) and try to get a willy box (JC5) as valver boxes are crap tbh.

As sambo said, I wouldn't have thought they would be stiffer and TBH I'm not sure if they are interchangable anyway. Mines is VERY low (too much so) at the back and I don' get any rubbing even with 3 in the back, but I'm running 15/45/195 tyres. It can be a bit of a gamble as some seem to be...

As maxx says, it will not fit. If you had a 1.2 energy then it would fit with a little work as it would be the same as a 1.4 RT inlet, but the diet engine is totally different.

Best bet would be to get your own car if you can afford it, otherwise you'll have to convince your mum but if she isn't for it then your gonna have to live with it. What company are you with just now? CIS also do a policy that covers anyone to drive it, but they don't like any mods now as they...

Looking good mate. Also, I would be very interested in the harnesses mate, as I think I'll strip the 16v interior if I keep it. How cheap is cheap? PM me if you want.

But he's noticing this all the time, so there is a problem.

I get pretty poor mpg on my 1.4 as well, but have yet to find the cause. I had a lumpy idle but noticed that after re-fitting the cat (I had a decat before) this issue has gone so I'm wondering if it will help my mpg, but I've hardly driven it since re-fitting the cat so I'm not sure. Best...

Torsion bar should be fine. It's usually only on the 16v clios that they seize as it's an open bar where as the lesser models are closed bar. Still, you would be best getting te torsion bar lowered before the front just incase it is seized.