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A few pointers; Firstly open your hand and apply equal pressure to gently push the subs cone in, you must push the cone in straight as any sideways pressure will result in an incorrect diagnosis.... If you can feel/hear any notchiness or scraping, then the subs screwed....if it feels smooth...

:lolup::lolup::cheers:

Don't I get a prize????:D Post 2,^^first recommendation^^.....;)

Engine running, Alt charging at 14.4v & supplying current for car & audio.... Engine not running, Alt not charging, Battery supplying 'ALL' current for audio.... Winter months equate to colder ambient temperatures & longer nights, this results in prolonged use of the cars main electrics...

If it was ^^this^^engine running or not wouldn't make a difference.... With regards^^this^^.... Check all fusing is tight, (running 0awg I assume your using ANL or AFS fusing).... Check all power & earth cable connections.... Check 1201 earth site, (damp weather can cause slight corrosion...

Just to point out, most speaker manufacturers recommend you fit the tweeter as close to the mid as possible, (usually within 12"), however, in most cars this isn't possible.... Tweeter positioning & aiming can totally change how a car sounds, most audiophiles opt for 'A' pillar mounted, cross...

4X50watts refers to the head units internal amplifier.... 4 = 4 channels Front left & right Rear left & right 50watts = Max output per channel The above will be fed via the ISO speaker block, (plugs in near the head units on board fuse location)... The engraving your referring to Sub, Front...

With regards highlighted sentences; This would indicate faulty RCA leads, not a faulty head unit

Have a read of post number 3 mate If you have no sub fitted, set crossovers to Flat or Off to allow full range driving of your speakers.....

OK, to recap & confirm symptoms; 1, Interference present whether engine running or not... 2, RCA leads removed from amp, No interference... 3, RCA leads removed from head unit, but fitted in amp??? Can't locate an answer... If you try running the system with the RCA leads removed from the head...

Please answer my earlier questions in post 13..... Along with.... 4, Does interference change in pitch when you rev the engine??? 5, Does interference change in volume when you turn stereo up/down???

OK, once upon a time......lol, this would be a monster post... Have a read here ..... You can't really use any formula for working it out whilst playing because a speakers impedance changes in accordance with heat generated, frequency being played etc etc..... So even testing with dummy...

Just a few more questions then; 1, Is the noise present when system is playing but engine is OFF??? 2, Is head unit a Pioneer??? 3, You have tried the head unit in another car this morning??? Poor amplifier earthing causes a 'ground loop' which basically means the amp is earthing through two...

System Switched OFF remove RCA leads from affected amplifier.... Switch system ON and play as normal Noise still present indicates fault lies in the boot, (99% amplifier earth location).... Noise no longer present indicates fault lies before the affected amp.... System Switched OFF Replace...

Morning mate.... Will post a guide to locate the source of your fault shortly.... Should only take a few minutes to read but I type with one finger, so it will take a while to type....

A few more answers.... With regards^^this^^....No they won't, power kills coils, power promotes over excursion, as previously stated there are variables to consider, but the above statement is fundamentally incorrect.....Power ratings vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, some speakers won't...

40Hz to 125Hz is the Crossover point, so if yours is set at say 80Hz, then the sub will play all Frequencies below 80Hz at full power, and will 'roll off' above 80Hz in accordance to whatever 'slope' is in use, (usually 12dB in 1/3rd of an octave lol).... With regards 'Bass' levels & 'Bass...

A few pointers that hopefully will allow you to decide for yourself... 1, You can't under power a speaker, lower power equals lower volume.... 2, A speakers input rms is the amount of power the speaker can handle whilst playing a 0dB tone continuously for a given period of time before it...

As stated previously you would need to build a sub enclosure in the actual wheel well for best results....If your amp has a 'phase' switch it would need setting at 180 degrees, if not then simply reverse the subs polarity....

I understand your problem mate, what is considered adequate by me may well be considered OTT to someone else.... Let me put it this way, if it was my car, I would use 0awg, if it was a customers car, I would use 0awg unless instructed to use 4awg to save the customer money, (in which case I...

Been a few threads about relocating batteries recently, also seems that no one has bothered to check out the safety side of things.... Which fuse was blowing??? The one protecting the cable from the battery, (in the boot), or the one protecting the cable from the alternator, (mounted in the...

There is a little confusion about the 'Bridged' output power of the GTO 1004e amplifier..... The actual 'Bridged' power is closer to 300w rms into a 4ohm load.... I've had very good results using GT5 12" subs off these amps, you can either design & build your own enclosure, (which would enable...

At last someone has mentioned JBL.... Quite possibly the best value for money brand currently available.... The amps are CEA rated, so actually do rated power.... The subs are conservatively rated, so will take plenty of abuse & sound pretty good doing it.... Just avoid ordering from 'car...

Interesting situation.... I had a none fault claim about 4 or 5 yrs ago, my ins company covered everything and then sought full payment from the other drivers ins, they even informed me that I could keep the courtesy car until the cheque for my car cleared, (it was a write off).... I would be...

Hi mate.... My advice often upsets people, so please consider this when your reading the following..... ^^Kicker L7 subs are renowned for getting loud but sounding crap whilst doing it^^ If quality is your preference, then avoid the Kickers.... ^^Sony head units have seriously gone...

RCA leads can only provide a possible earth track, not an added power source....So wiring issue must be with the earth.... Your problem is 99% the amplifier earth site....

Send it straight back mate.... In laymans terms you've paid for a Limo & they've sent a horse & cart.....

Why post on a 3yr old thread??? The answer to your question is, "Probably not"..... Light dimming when operating electric windows is usually caused by stock wiring looms being designed with cost over safety, rather than performance in mind.... Any electrical wiring will have resistance...

Threads 4yrs old mate, you been drinking:nono::D:D

Blue light indicates alls well, Red light indicates Amp is in 'protect'.... So, going on your description I would assume; No RCA leads fitted, no power/status indication = Poor connection.... RCA leads fitted, Amp status is 'protection' = Bad amp earth, (when RCA leads fitted amp is partially...