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You can either splice into the original loom inside the car just before it goes through into the door itself or if you wish to preserve your cars loom you can actually wire the amplifier speaker feeds right back to the head unit and connect to original loom using an ISO speaker block purchased...

The Infinity comps linked to are a bargain at that price.... Check out same seller for the JBL GTO4000.... The GTO4000 is a 4ch amp so you could use the rear chs bridged to drive a sub....

Wouldn't advise it mate, connecting a second set of speakers in 'parallel' will lower the impedance seen by the head units internal amp & could promote excessive power demands & associated thermal issues.... Or in laymans terms; No, you would be overloading the head unit....

A few pointers copied & pasted from previous thread, (not linking to full thread as its a little too much).... basic settings to start with; head unit; bass---at "0" treble---at"0" any factory preset eq's---off any added bass circuits---off graphic or parametric eq's---flatline at"0" any media...

I would suggest you do a little research mate, I would have a quick browse but I don't have all the information.... A good place to start is 'google' distance selling act.... I would guess if you've paid up front, (no credit agreement), then your screwed.... If you have entered into a...

A few thoughts; 1, Amplifier is dropping into protect, check amplifier manual for 'trouble shooting' section, there may be a way to find whats wrong, (on some amps protect light operates as diagnosis aid).... 2, Have you tried relocating the amplifier earth??? 3, How were the amplifier gains...

No worries mate, just trying to help.... Obviously I can't state yours is dangerous or not, I haven't actually seen it....If your happy, then what I think doesn't really matter....

^^Fair Point^^ You haven't recommended it to be done this way. So why bother posting how you did it????

Grommets are fitted to prevent water ingress & to protect the cable from chaffing.... Saying a cable doesn't move proves nothing, each & every shock through the car will cause some movement of each item, (cable & bulkhead), it only takes small amounts of vibration to effectively saw through the...

Classic TB3... 1, Battery 2, Alternator 3, Charge Circuit Wiring Kiddies TB3... Item 3 from above.... 1, Alternator to Chassis EARTH 1A, Runs from alt to chassis, (most alternators now earth via gearbox chassis earth strap).... 1B, This upgrade will yield minimal gains unless uprated...

As previously stated, if your happy with the unit then get it repaired.... I would estimate that repair would cost 60 to 80 pounds.... Give them a ring, (service line), & have a chat.... Alpine UK contact details

The 'from head unit' wires actually come from the head unit.... They split at some point behind the dash to feed the door mounted mids & dash mounted tweeters.... You can either splice into them behind the head unit or in the doors, but you need to connect your new drivers to the 'crossovers'...

Info hot off the Press; 99% of head units are fused at 10amps.... This 10amps is used to supply the CD laser, CD laser carriage, CD drive motor, Unit Illumination, Unit Display Panel & Finally internal Amplification.... A Speaker reproduces sound in accordance to the electrical signal it...

Been covered a few times recently.... The crossovers limit the frequencies being reproduced by each seperate driver, (mid or tweeter), which theoretically improves sound quality.... For wiring info SEE HERE, POST 8 , should just about answer your query....

Here we go again..... ^^Indicates issue may be directly related to Alternator^^ ^^NO, its a power supply problem^^ Certainly mate.... Firstly, Complete TB3, (Charge circuit upgrades).... 1, Alternator---Upgrade.....DONE 2, Battery---Upgrade.....DONE 3, Charge Circuit...

Due to your musical preference I would opt for a Vibe CBR 12 'passive' enclosure, these are much more suited to hard punchy bass lines.... The components & amplifier previously selected would be fine.... Head units are a personal item, you should select one that your happy with on all levels...

No mention of musical preference.... No mention of budget.... Fair sound quality with an emphasise on bass.... Could do worse than; Front Components JBL GTO1004 4ch amp JBL GT5 Ported enclosure exclusive to Motorworld You would also benefit from deadening the boot area, (cover all...

They serve a few purposes, all to do with airflow.... If a car has no means to vent air out, then it would struggle to allow air in.... In an enclosed environment you need air circulation to avoid stale air causing driver fatigue, as air is drawn or forced in at the front it will pass through...

Will it eject or load cds, or is it totally dead??? If it will still operate the eject mechanism then its probably the IGN live thats at fault, (either poor connection or blown fuse)....

Any package deal which contains a 'Juice' amp should be avoided.... I would say your best option is; After market head unit Uprated front components 4ch Amplifier GT5 12" sub in Ported enclosure 4awg wiring kit Sound deadening 2 sets of decent 'interconnects'....(RCA leads).... Use the 4ch...

If chasing better SQ then I would suggest uprated components for the front driven from an amplifier rather than the head unit.... Then its a simple case of matching the output from the sub & components.... You could try adjusting your current setup, a little patience may well yield good...

Correct.... I don't like techno babble, it gets in the way....lol.. Simple explanation; Purchase amps etc before even considering the power source or means to convey that power.... Each decision, charge circuit wise, will affect system voltage.... Each decision, supply cable wise, will affect...

Follow the LINKY & search for your cars battery, then simply read off the specs....

I think before you go any further you need to decide exactly what effect YOU desire.... Why do you require rear speakers??? Do you carry rear seat passengers??? Are you simply after more volume??? Are you after the Club sound??? Try to get a listen to a few different set ups in similar cars...

Firstly, I don't work for Halfords, I don't work for Motorworld or any of the other, "You need a power cap", brigade.... A few basics.... A cars power supply is DC, (Direct Current), so cable resistance plays a large part in supply voltage.... Supply voltage directly affects current being...

And here we go again!!!!!! The subject of 'Power caps' is a complicated one.... The debate on the benefits of a 'Power cap' is also a complicated one.... Hold fire on buying one until you fully understand exactly what one does & exactly what one requires to do it....

With IGN off simply remove the relevant fuse or power cable.... To be absolutely safe, (to protect equipment), you should ideally remove the battery earth first.....(guards against any chance of short circuit)..... A human body has a high resistance, so shocking from 12v is very doubtful....

Yes you can.... The amp in question is bridgeable into a 4ohm load, which means each channel will drive loads as low as 2ohm, so 2X 4ohm speakers per ch connected in 'parallel' is possible.....But, connected in this fashion you would lose the ability to fade between front & rear.... Possibly...

Which lights have failed mate??? Brake lights, Tail lights, Indicators or all of them??? If it's all of them, then the only common point would be the light cluster earthing point....