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Believe they're M6 around 15mm long, take one out your engine cover and check it on the threads just to be sure as i aint 100% its been a while since mine was off

I think they're too soft from the factory personally, They're uber comfy though and much an improvement over stock. If its non cup i'd get teh V2s

It can be welded in on an Ali bonnet, but wouldnt be cost effective, Need a Company with an Ali welding booth from what i recall

With the nose pointing down slightly approx 40mm lower To give you an idea

as Fred One of them though 67mm IIRC and Silicone Sealent, Wont move then, I found the Renault clamps to be a bit pants

Take them to a bodyshop give them the paint code, I've done loads of bits at work, my superleggeras are the same colour :D ahem (my garage lol) Renault code 205110 GRIS METAL FROID-MET

Sounds expensive to me for a tyre centre, mine got done for £30

Falken 912s, S drives are ~£50 a corner, I've jsut fitted pzeros to mine in that size they are ok but not as good as bald PE2s but at £55 a corner i couldnt moan really

Budget around 400 sheets, That should include the bumper dropping off & light out, Repairing and painting.

^^ This, On another note aren't the US spec front bumper mouldings different, like the tailgates? (You need one of them ;) ) What i mean is do they have the recess in the trim where the plate sits? If i get time tomorrow i'l get one of our parts monkeys to have look at Etka for a smooth one!

Interesting to know what car it is?

I know this is a bit late, but I reckon it's too low!

I think the serials on the front of the box! Seems to ring a bell last time I looked at mine

Everyone elses riveted then? Got one to acquire at work tomorrow

I went Lowering More lowering Less lowering Exhaust Induction kit New wheels With some painting thrown in here and there

I'l be breif, Are they held on with T20 torxs from the factory?

urgh Zis block, here! Its at the back or the mirror baseplate, Its easier to remove the mirror altogether to get acess to it, this is where you need to connect your temp sensor into I THINK the temp sensor needs to be plugged into numbers 2 & 3, However i cant say for definate as i removed...

Pretty much, no need to drop the whole bumper off though, Just the side that needs replacing

Crows foot + Molies tight?

^^ I couldn't live with my 1144s rattling so I took a file to them so I could get the springs back in.

Have you checked balljoints and TREsfor play they will knock too if worn!

That's the inner one isn't it? Mine has a fraction of play in it on the nearside, its nothing to worry about yet but is going to want doing soon! One sides harder than the other, which side had gone on yours?

Have you removed the N/S mirror? The loom that comes up the back of the doorcard will have pins for the temp sensor the O/S doesnt have this! You need to split the block on your mirror and put the terminals in this so they match up with the loom on the car

You need to compound polish it with a machine, See it a few times at work and they 9/10 require me to hit it with the buffer, Its not actually grease is it? just a white mark in teh laquer

I'd take all the pipes off and flush them all if it were me! Through the block and heater matrix, But i'd still be doing a compression test before that,

FTR, I filled my header tank up to max, it threw it back out when it was warmed up and settles at halfway when cold, Been like this for two years, you should be investigating further into yours! I personally would be testing the compression to see what readings you get across the cylinders...

and everywhere else on the french scene AFAIK!

Take it the wheels well kerbed, TBF i'd do the 2 just to make sure

are the tyres rediculusly hard,

2nd and 3rd down = WANT