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Its probably due to track work being carried out over the winter and the heavy goods vehicles spilt fluids on the grass, or maybe a marshal took a pi$$ on the grass pre-race! Either way its BS, I can understand getting a wheel on the grass and it spinning you like a top as that's real life, but...
If its meant to be a simulation WTF cant I get off the damn grass once I've binned it, its ridiculous even in 2nd with 5-10% throttle you just do donuts in a RWD, lol.
Anyone noticed the downshift delay? Its a feature that was added in the 2.0 patch...'downshift protection' its so you cant bang down the gears to aid slowing down under braking, you now need to time it so it doesn't hit the limiter on each downshift. I thought it was another bug, but seems not...
Mine blows slightly and I changed the box oil via the butterfly screw cap. Its been doing this for 2 years now, its probably the breather seal but its so minimal I've just left it.
On Alignment has anyone used supertracker equipment? Had mine done recently and only realised after arguing with the guy that the toe is in mm not minutes, lol. For reference for anyone using supertracker 10min of toe equates to 0.80mm. Mine's now running -0.80mm either side so -20min total and...
Yeah 60mm shocks and 40mm AMAX (re-braned APEX springs) drove fine for me on road and track. here's mine on them with 15" wheels...PM me if interested.
Just go back to OE shocks and lowering springs if mainly used on road, which in truth will be better than those Vmaxx coilovers. It just so happens I have fresh OE shocks and lowering springs for sale cheapy, cheap :smile:
Plenty of threads and posts on ebay cages, but in 99.9% of the time you'll be fine, it's just that big shunt or awkward roll where you may come unstuck or to put it bluntly impaled by the cage due to its materials and construction.
For the sake of a few hundred quid buy a proper one.
Air bag lights can be switched off using 2p resistors from Maplins, not sure on decat lights as mine never came on using a scorpion decat pipe but there will be a cheap way no doubt!
172 cup would be your best option for a dedicated track car, but just go with any 1*2 that has a half decent track spec, good condition with recent belts. The difference on track is minimal over a boggo 172 or 182. The boggo 172 and 182 will also cost a little less than a 172 cup so you could...
Might just be worth going with the shorted shocks as your current dampers will be so compresses all of the time they will have hardly any rebound making them ride terrible.
5L of Pagid dot 4 or 5.1 fluid using their discount code (<£20). On the way back get the abs to fire on gravel or grass 4-5 times and re-bleed. Rise and repeat until you have a firm pedal. Done this twice now when changing ABS pumps and MC's.
Sorry meant 10 rear, 8 front. BC should be able to do 10 rears even though they don't advertise on Kam but the rear dampers may need to be revalved to suit.
Roof cam for me as well, but can use cockpit cam on the tracks I've fully come to grips with (MSV tracks). Also what I've noticed is that when using cockpit cam the car seems easier to handle and is less twitchy, but as mentioned above it takes up precious track view as a trade off.
AST 5100 FS here, sell the Bilsteins and put the grand to and you'll have pretty much the best suspension for the Clio, cant compare to Gaz or BC but I run AST's and they are brilliant :smile:
https://www.cliosport.net/threads/breaking-high-spec-ph1-172-racecar.812515/#post-11491271
Maybe see what the Clio cup racers were running and copy that set-up as surly they're at the pinnacle of handling with all the R&D that went into them?