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as andi says you need the senders to operate the dials. you could fit an oil level/oil temp sensor of a valver in the original hole for the oil level only sensor on your rt,you might be able to find an oil pressure sensor that would fit in the original place of the oil warning light sensor on...

anybody who can do torsion bars can set it the same as the front. you just meassure the front underbody height and adjust the rear torsion bar to compensate. unsure about who could do it near you though as im not local to you.

id say about £50>£60 to fit everything.

about £65 up to £120 per driveshaft(depending on where it is from) and about 1 1/2>2 hrs labour.

ask a main dealer that.

k-tec or any local place like ripspeed or road and rally etc.

best option would be the exchange box. not sure what separate parts are avaliable regarding the diff and it might just be a new complete diff which would be pretty exspensive and youll have to pay the labour to strip the box down as well. at least with the exchange box you get a fully...

you could do with the door looms off the other vehicle and the switches as well.

put the laguna throttle body on my mates maxim ages ago,near enough a straight swap(only works on spi energy engines). got a feeling of dajarvoo here though.

if you still have the reciept then youll get a new cable under parts warranty(the part only not fitted). is the clutch pedal heavy?

it just above the sump on the engine block(@the front) on the right hand side(near the gearbox). you have to remove a blanking bung(13m or inverted torx)

if you unlock it and dont open a door it will relock within 1minute.

£330 for the cat back system(although there has been a few cheaper deals about at the moment). ive got the 6*4 oval tailpipe.

probably a faulty door lock solenoid. have a look at the a-post car>door connector as well.

re-map means they input new software into your original ecu. an ecu is a complete new ecu which replaces the original one like the r-sport for example. you can also have piggy back ecus such as the unichip which work alongside your original ecu.

ive got the induction kit which is pretty good.

pull of the plastic trim on the inside of the door frame in the same place as the mirror. there are 2 nuts/screws behind this. there is also a 3rd nut/screw behind a plastic bung in the door. thats it,remove the 3 nuts and unplug the connector if its electric mirrors.

the rear pistons wind in as well(apply pressure at the same time as winding them)

the 1.4 16v is a K4J type engine.

ok dude,just want to make sure were talking about the same things if you know what i mean.

had quite a few problems with the centre sections on the 172 and the price of them is unbelievable. for the same price you could get a aftermarket stainless steel job for the same money. ive got the magnex and im pleased enough with it.

a few people have got the apex springs from k-tec as they visibly lower the car quite a bit. they would be ok with the 17s as well.

can you post a pic of your engine bay so you could point out where the noise seems to be coming from and i could point out a few things to check. you can remove the aux belt and start the engine you just wont be charging the battery as the alternators not being turned. be ok to run for a minute...

easy job mate. do a search as this has been posted plenty of times before mate. thread lock doesnt come with the pads you would have to buy that seperate.

your not alone mate,the sunroofs in new cars leak just as bad. bloody renaults!

is the number on the wheel nut as well as the key itself?(hes lost the key) or can they match the pattern up?

the noise is from near the belts yes? is the aux belt slack or worn/damaged? could you remove the belt and then restart the engine. if the noise stops you know its the aux belt or something it runs(alternator etc) if the noise is still there then its from the cambelt(if its from there then check...

i posted the part number of a seal for the frames a while ago(seal between frame and vehicle roof). it was about £30. do a search as i cant remember the part number off hand.

try some easy outs(you drill a hole in the bolt and the easy out screws into it and winds out the bolt at the same time) an air chisel always works for me but im guessing you dont have access to one of them. you could try a hammer and a decent punch to knock it round. some tools shops now...

some older clios didnt have drain holes they just relied on the seals keeping the water out. later ones have drains on the frames(probably when renault realised the roofs leak like f**k so instead of fixing it they just made somewhere for the water to go).these drains can get blocked with...