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might even be the gearbox mount as they have been known to be noisy and shear off before. least its warranty so lets see what they say.

have a general look of the engine wiring loom to see if its rubbed through or damaged somewhere. when does the oil light come on? whats the average running oil pressure@ what rpm? does the engine sound ok?

the n/s/f wheel usually spins first due to the smaller shaft etc which is not a problem. seeing as the noise is still there even with the esp turned off then it cant be a problem with that system. without hearing the noise its difficult to suggest anything maybe a driveshaft problem or something...

you could be on the right lines as one worn mount will put excessive strain on the other mounts.

no you cant get them.

i know,they look like a spikey golf ball. never mind just a bigger excuse to get some alloys.

i can check at work this week if nobody else posts it up. you use a multimeter in the ohms setting or use a diagnostic station.

the 172 use a single coil pack not individual coils like on the other engines.

what engine is it? no skimming is allowed on the new 16v petrol engines and they use a metal headgasket. older 8 valve lumps can be skimmed if nes and they use the old style fibre gasket.

hillpower do an air scoop thats fits instead of the foglight.

110bhp 1.6 16v k4m engine. made in the clio 2 phase 1 but was discontinued before the clio 2 phase 2 came out. came with the most garish alloys wheels as standard. quite nippy if you get a good one.

the weight of the flywheel helps with the engine momentum. a lightened flywheel will just make the engine easier to rev. the only disadvantage is maybe a lumpier idle and the revs might drop quicker in between gear changes. im sure there are more worthwhile mods for the same money that you could...

will have a look.

ebiach are probably best for the handling but if you want a bigger drop(30/40mm) then the apex are ok(fitted some saturday and the rides ok)

normal problems on the rsi lump- 1,water pump 2,aux belt 3,aux belt tensioner

brake pads easy enough to change mate. a couple of thirteen m bolts. youll need 13,19m sockets ,17m spanner,flat blade screwdriver and some large grips.

i should think so. there might be slight differences in ratios but i think thats it really.

ill have a think,look up some parts prices and let you know.

i could get you the price of the brakes fitted and could do that anytime. be a week or so before i could do the clutch though(got loads on at the moment) and i would need a hand lifting the subframe and gearbox on/off.

most of the info you need is shown with the wiring diagrams(separate cd) although the computer pin locations might be shown in the 172 repair manual on dialogys.

that sounds like the cause of your problem.

the clutch part itself is about a £100

and the rest. the dealer i work at charge about £65 per hour.

maybe rear wheel bearing. have you jacked up the car and spun each wheel to see if you can hear it?

you do it by measuuring the rear arm to vehicle distance or rear arm to floor. according to my manual moving the torsion bar 4 splines changes vehicle height by 10mm. you meassure your distances,mark the original torsion bar position,remove the torsion bar,jack up the rear arm the amount you...

£40!,try and bodge some cheap universal back box on it.

the n/s/f wheel will have slightly less weight on it compared to the o/s/f wheel so thats probably why it locks first.

what if you block off the gauge pipe under the bonnet? does the hissing stop.

if the grease doesnt work then defo take it back because the next step would be to remove the interior panel to have a look at the mechanism etc.

have a look the engine/gearbox mounts first.