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to be honest the block should be fine, i'm more annoyed that i spent almost 2k having the engine rebuilt and 600 miles later this happened!
now i'll have to get a new cambelt, etc, etc
the place i went to used a milling machine, it was just akward with the size of the wheel. they were pretty old school though, all the machines were running from belts in the celling! it was all a bit industrial revolution.
the belt has definately jumped, they have been fastening preassure hoses to the head and moving the cams. hopefully it didn't bend too many valves! i'll find out tomorrow.
i can't wait..........
time for a quick update now.
the damage turned out to be even worse than it first looked! one of the mounting lugs had snapped clean off the front of the block, fortunately the chunk that was missing ended up in the radiator and was able to be welded back on. one of the lugs behind the block...
i got some done for £15 each, just got charged for the time. it costs a bit because the chances of them having either a lathe big enough, or the correct size bit is pretty slim. the guy did mine had to make a template and used some kind of ecentric milling machine, took two hours at £30/hr
that car has had more things done to it and then undone than i can remember. it used to belong to my flatmate, and he had it set up like a racer. the guy who owns it now comes on here though, his name here is the reg plate on the car.
i personally thought the ratio between bump and rebound was too much towards the bump. ie. when the bump seemed set nicely, the rebound was too low giving a pogo effect. or when the rebound was nice, they were much too hard for the springs.
how about keeping your car as it is now, and going down the tt route with a williams? a mate of mine was looking at doing that to an exclusive, but i always thought a williams tt would be great!
i was going to say, if you were looking at doing it for the sake of doing it. you might as well build another car. if you want more life from the re-built engine, have a look at these guys too.
http://www.frozensolid.co.uk/
not sure to be honest, i phoned renault to get the part numbers, and they gave me the code for my box too. i do know that the difference is to do with the bearings types, and that the later boxes have fixed circlips to stop the wear on the syncros. but in turn have a weaker diff design.
where did you get a quote for a new box for that?? renault quoted me, 288+vat for the casing, and 267+vat for the bell housing, and that is without the internals!!
i had a gaz kit for a while, which i quickly replaced i'm afraid to say. but from memory i think i was running 4 front and 7-8 on the rear. what everyone sooms to find is that they are too bouncy set soft, and too crashy set firmer. i don't know if anyone tried changing the poundage of their...
there is a way to strengthen the standard box. speak to a company called frozen solid, they are used by most dtm and touring car teams, along with manufacturers who have tooling treated.
basically they use a cryogenic treatment which can roughly be equated to forging, it differs mainly though...
what i have just found out is that there are slight differences between the early and late boxes. hence the shop have a case, but cant put my internals into it!