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Track use, road use or both?

The stuff I mentioned is aircraft grade and it used because its compatible with all metals, treated or not.

Yeah I run 205/50

15s for me. Less weight, lower c of g for same width tyre and generally a better tyre choice. Cheaper (both the wheels and tyres)

Which pistons will you be using? There's quite a few in the 83-84mm range.

With the lift on the 421 I'm not sure, you'd have to dry build and get some plasticine on the pistons. Someone might know though. However I'd imagine a 0.5mm skim (which is a fair bit) won't cause any trouble. Have you already got Supertech valves?

Dinitrol or Tiodize?

£200-250 from some places. Then depending where you go add to that for paying for the name.

You could have one made for around £200-250 Contact Boston Radiator Services. They made me one and had it delivered within two days. The quality was great and it worked very well.

Longest you can fit whilst keeping a filter. Trim under the bonnet if you need to. 421, if you've already got itbs and you're getting new cams it's a no brainer. Although the engine dynamics cams have a longer duration maybe worth a look as people have had good results with them. I went with...

I've used the dz03g which were great.

I would use steel rod rather than aluminium.

I've done the same on Zetec engines.

Wheels from topgear.co.uk. Tyres from mytyres.

Just the 182 cup and trophy, they fit the 172 cup.

I've got Cooksport springs on Koni shocks and its great. Spax springs aren't as low IIRC and I'm not sure what rate they are and whether they are progressive.

I have some nearly new cup shocks and top mounts (Bought this year and done 3k miles only) I've just taken off my ph1. Let me know if you want to save money!

Do you want to fit it around the standard battery or are you going to move the battery?

I'd proper go off on one if that happened... Fortunate it happened on the way though, stuff it going at 120+ on one of the straights.

Pro race 1.2 + 205/50-R15 Federal RS-R = £620 including vat and delivery I use mine in the wet and dry, no issues.

I ran these with standard mounts and no bumpstops. Had no issues. Now I have them with bump stops and solid top mounts. Again, no issues.

It's all sorted now. The car was at the garage and they weren't sure. I went there and worked it out.

I've got these, they have a little insert. Does that sit on the little nut that holds the top spring retainer on and then the AST bearing on top of that?

In what order do the components go when fitting the top mounts? Do you retain the standard bearing or not?

Lol at 60kg. The block and crank will be about that. It's iron. All alloy engines are around 80-90kg.

197 injectors are a higher cc/min than 172 injectors. So you'll probably find top end is ok but the rest is rich.

Swap the KTR top mounts for AST top mounts?

They'd be different for each disc although there are wasy of doing the 280 and 300mm bracket as one. So if you wanted to you could drive to a track with 16" wheels and 300mm discs, get there and fit 280mm discs and 15" wheels. Not sure why you would want to do that but you could.

If it all works out I'll be having a batch of brackets made up for the callipers. Hopefully I'll be able to keep the price right down too. They'll work with standard 280mm discs for 15" wheels, Scenic 300mm discs for 16" wheels and potentially 288 or 294mm discs for a bigger disc with 15"...

Yeah, it's not a massive amount. If they aren't required it makes things easier.