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I could push them in and they wouldn't push back out, not like the standard ones do.

Duratec only in name ;) its a Zetec

Just fitted mine, they are oil filled from what I can tell.

Using ST170 as a base engine. You're talking £3500 with ECU, mapping, Hayabusa ITBS, head work, catcams, springs, pocketed standard pistons, balanced bottom end with 7.25" clutch and flywheel. This has given 270bhp on the standard exhaust manifold.

Start with a st170. Very easy to do a 240bhp zetec then. Even getting a standard zetec head to a good enough spec only costs £600-700 for bigger one piece valves, solid lifters and port work. The issue the zetec has with revs is the oil pump. To make a truely reliable one you need a dry sump...

Powerflow North West in Deeside are cheap. Mike there cut out my old one and fitted a new smaller one with extra pipe work for 60. A decent silencer alone is about 60.

Different rollers. Reckon you'd do 194 on the RS Tuning rollers? And as they are 428 its only a slightly better inlet. What makes me laugh is how people claim they get around 215bhp with the 428s and ITBs...

Of course it does, its no different to any other engine. The limit is just the amount in your bank account.

Will 438 work as well, yes, but differently. Will they make the same peak figures, no. You're talking a few degrees of duration and a slight difference in overlap due to timing. But more so that you get with the standard cams. So will 438 work better with ITBs than standard cams?! Define...

Cup ones are better with the extra offset.

They are :)

IIRC they are the same, the only difference is the shape/size of the flywheels due to different clutches. So what you have now will fit a 197/200 crank.

421 won't do 215 at rs tuning. 200-205 realistically. Headwork, 422 and pocketed pistons (keep the standard ones imo) will see a genuine 215. And they don't lose out too much low down like the 423 do.

The standard one works very well

Re: Ph1 172 Done a couple of things but nothing major. Swapped out the cup shocks and top mounts for some adjustable AST mounts and adjustable Konis Fitted some 8mm blue Magnecore leads. Got a pair of fog blanks for when I'm not needing brake cooling. Wondering how this is removed...

If you're going to do it consider some headwork and 422s.

That's just speculation, cams don't work like that though. The 438 will work fine with ITBs no differently to any other camshaft. 421 have a longer duration and slightly different cam timing to move the power band up the rev range a bit, hence making more power.

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/homepage-feature-box/emerald-adjustable-length-intake.html

Although they will cost more, you could get the Emerald adjustable ones, that way you can get the longest possible to fit.

I've got the elf njf after I had it rebuilt.

Transforms the mx5. I like it.

I'm on cooksports. They're great on the road, ride height is a happy medium. I've got a whiteline arb on the back. It would be nice to have a similar upgrade on the front.

Just to increase the roll stiffness without increasing spring rate.

Very nice, should rev well. Will you lighten the crank? 197/200 crank is 1.5kg lighter.

Could do but it's just right on the road. Adjustable bladed setup would be nice

I don't know what others have made at rs tuning with itbs but a lot of other rollers overread. When people say they see 210-215 ish with just itbs and 421 cams imo that's a bit optimistic, you'd be looking at around 200 on the rs tuning rollers I think. Which is realistic considering it's...

Have you got your other graph before the bodies?

Boo :(

Can't find anything but does anybody do a uprated front anti roll bar?

Tbh I have to say the cooksport springs are still a good shout... They are an excellent road setup, I use them on track too and for the odd trackday I can't complain. No setting the height, just fit and forget. And the height is such that it's low enough to look good but the car is still...