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Moving at Christmas... the new workshop footings went in today so the rest is coming out of the ground shortly (woop woop)

Did you not buy the RSTuner SRS module? It will tell you what is wrong otherwise you need to take it somewhere for an accurate diagnostic

It read like a dig to me Martin - maybe because I've been at work since 5am? If not then I appologise but I take my business very seriously as its taken me years to build.

Careful Martin, i don't know what you are getting at here so what are you trying to say about me and my business with that line or would you sooner he take it to TCR because they race Clio's and won't charge him a penny either? Don't be afraid to say what you think because I'm not! Oh well...

You're not installing them right. There's a locating boss on the bulkhead that I promise you're not getting the wiper assembly on correctly

Renault... or a scrap yard. I've got to order one myself later for a customers 172 Cup that has the same problem.

Its not hard but its tricky. Basically there's a few different ways depending on what you're trying to achieve. I did one on Saturday and left the steering rack in place.

That should also have been accompanied by the SRS warning lamp to. The SERV lamp is there to say "this needs attention"

No, ABS is not normally accessible by generic EODBII I'm afraid but there are some that will. Your best bet is to get it to a local garage for the cheapest code reading session you can find.

SERV is normally accompanied by a system light such as ABS, SRS or EM. When you turn the car on check all these lights turn on and if not there's most likely an issue with one of the warning lights.

I find a flat ended drive and a lump hammer usually works after a few squirts of penetrating fluid.

Then it 100% needs data logging amd someone with the ability to see what the various signals are doing. Personally I'd be very suprised if a so called "chip" in the flywheels trigger pattern caused enough of a signal incoherence especially at that frequency. Mick

Not really as they're designed to be installed using stock timing points. I'd still want a genuine, un-biased opinion on the camshaft timing relative to the crank position followed by a proper data logging session if all was good in that area.

Sounds like its been tampered with

Birchdown will sort you out for sure! Don't change anything without first having it plugged in. You may get lucky but generally with problems like these accurate diagnostics is more than half the battle. Mick

This is the WTCE Laguna powered Clio isn't it? Amazing bit of engineering bit sod the rebuild costs on that.

Utter madness and honestly, my head cannot process this right now plus its making me angry.

Dan is just up the road from you... deffo go see him.

Fred at BTM is close to you or you could bring it to me in Nottingham as electrical is more my thing. Mick

Yeah its £480+VAT and delivery but still a great bit of kit for the money.

I believe they're Laguna I ph2 alloys, possibly a Laguna II

Not really no as the water pump isn't timing belt driven on these and they can be done at any time... but that's going off topic.

I'd try it again to see if you get power and if not have a good pull on the cables to see if it kicks in to life.

S-Class around Eastwood... baller!

The ECU earths via the engine loom not the ECU chassis so it won't make any difference if it is bolted down or not. It does sound like a poor battery/earth issue but it's curious that it wouldn't work when he swapped the setups but when he swapped back it fired... nothing was done to the...

Are you sure everything was plugged in correctly?

Same as every other 16v... 5yrs or 72k

Because there is a little known issue specifically with the Cups and the 5v reference voltage which occurs with a dash loom fault. Its a throw back between the brake pedal switch and the "brake on" signal to the ecu which seems to f**k up track 2. When you scope the two tracks you can see it...

In that case then you're going to need to get it checked for codes but I'll bet £20 with you that it comes down to an inconsistency between pedal tracks 1 and 2. Personally I'd want to data log the two tracks at both the pedal and ecu to see whats occurring as it is either a wiring or ecu fault...

That's because they're not and the fuel consumption does not represent the cars pace. The 200 is the car the 197 should've been from the start... night and day difference imo