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An all purpose cleaner or engine degreaser from autoglym will remove a lot of the grime with a good scrub, if that doesn't quite cut it then a tar and glue remover might help

I hate to argue but as my previous post, the AG dressing runs and hides at the hint of rain. looks nice, sh1t durability

Something like smooth peanut butter from the supermarket will be fine, chunky gets a bit in the way but I personally will try a pencil rubber first as this will help remove the old residue and be less messy. if it is just faded and not residue then give them a good scrub with an all purpose...

Ive not tried this exact product, so is just a guess. But these types of products don't quite cut through grime and grease quite as well as say a typical wheel cleaner, but what it will do is remove the embedded iron fallout from brakes that billberry won't touch. All based on similar type products

Polish will not leave anything on the car, waxes or sealants will but these will start to be removed by using a tar remover and clay.

A little drizzle just now and beading is very tight and uniform, comparable to the reload that is currently on the car

JD, you still living in a flat? your Mrs must love you filing any free space with 101 bottles of wheel cleaner and pre wash. My Mrs moans with it all in the shed

Anyone used the wax sample from August waxybox? felt quite soft and oily in the pot, but didn't spread all that great with a finger mitt on my bonnet tonight over a base of rejuvenate. Removal was OK but came off better if it wasn't left too long, as in half a bonnet max.

You need to remove the white residue otherwise no treatment will hide these. Pencil eraser or peanut oil or a good scrub with a household all purpose cleaner. as for treatment you won't find much worth the money in halfords, most will wash off in the morning dew, especially the autoglym...

Depends what part of the make up has altered so you won't know, if at all, what has changed

For something that you might use 100 - 500ml once every 4 to 6 months, 25l might be a little unnecessary imo

All you need to do is spray a small panel once or directly onto a microfibre and spread it around, then buff off with a clean microfibre or just the clean side. Job done. a larger panel might need 2 or 3 sprays. No need to leave it to cure or use as much as EGP

By melting you will have changed the chemical make up with solvents evaporating and others altering with the reheating and cooling process. Plus they have a set cooling process that differs based on the ingredients. All you needed to do was use a tea spoon and dig it out in large pieces as...

Re: Dad-6 AF kit All will look pretty much identical, as long as you have a 5" backing plate go with whoever is cheapest, i4d was pretty cheap for the das6. Polished bliss for the AF kit with free delivery.

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Without being rude, but if you'd have tried a few you would know that they are different even if the same grade, then the different grades of hardness etc. Some probably are made by the same supplier, but not all. And what harm can they do? Use it wrongly or use a harsh clay and you should...

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Both are very nice, although application is a tiny fraction nicer with reload

The magic clay is similar to smartwax clay IIRC, wasn't bad as such, but the price you can get some for from a respectable trader I wouldnt bother with it.

Pre rinsing should remove some of the muck allowing the SF to get at the film of grime that is typically harder to remove. What you will normally notice is a slightly shorter dwell time for the snowfoam on a wet cae

Not many, but reload and C2 seem to be working so far

Speak with the owner and see how he feels about you removing the supaguard and the warranty. However poorit may be he may want to retain it. In which case a normal cleanse, topped with glaze and wax is the way forward

Nanolex and wolf's have a QD designed to be used with nano sealants so will work fine with C2

As above Look for a PH nuetral non gloss enhancing shampoo. an all in one polish or glaze like autoglym SRP or autofinesse tripple then seal with C2, most of the money should go towards drying towels and a good mitt

Comparison thoughts on the products?

It's not a quick detailer, but provided the cars still coming up perfectly clean after a wash you can simply add another layer of protection as its as easy to use as a quick detailer. C2, any version, is the same as above really. Can be used as a quick detailer if you dilute it down

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I quite liked the shampoo, bar the smell. Not had a chance to use the others yet

Again, yes it will work, but won't do your paint any favours and won't work as well as a dedicated tar remover.