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Prob not chap - Continuity testing will only show if there's a clear "break" in a line which if there is an *actual* "difference between tracks 1 & 2" it most likely won't have (backed up further more by the diagnostics not saying something like "Throttle potentiometer Track 1/2 - Open Circuit"...

Loving the Vajazzle work to the center caps. Only a real man could rollup in that beast... deffo not a ginger!

AA man is right though Adam - Stop trying to run it until it has been seen as you are risking some nasty damage every time you try. The aux belt needs to come off so the ancils and bearings can be checked for seized items and then if they're okay i'd personally pull the plugs out and try...

These cable-less systems basically consists of two potentiometers which are essentially a kind of scaletrix controller. They normally read in mV but this is seen by the ECU as a percentage - Typically One starts at 0% and ranges to 100% and the other starts at 100% and ranges down to 0%...

"Scope" or "DSO" aka "oscilloscope" Basically it turns the numerical sensor values read by the ECU every millisecond in to a pretty moving line type picture (Known as a waveform) which helps better understand any problems which may occur. Normally a very pricey piece of kit which even...

Adam, I've just logged on to the accounts and your job still has warranty with us until 9/7/13 so if its our doing its our bill so please, let us have a look. Personally from what you've said I think its going to be an alternator/PAS/water pump issue though as seized tensioner doesn't tend to...

Why didn't you call today? I will certainly take a look at it for you of you can get it here. Mick

I don't monitor the facebook page as I'm normally battling emails as well as actual work. Chances of an ignition coil loom causing a tp track consistency issue are slim. Ideally you need a scope now to graph the two signals in real time as that will show any errors (if one actually exists). I...

It will be the difference between tracks 1 & 2 that's causing the reduction in engine speed and I will put money on it being neither the pedal or the throttle body. In fact, I'll go all out and say even money on it being a wiring fault in the engine bay loom section.

Need to ser the data Liam. You at Bedford as I can scope the tracks for you and tell you if its a pedal or not? I've changed one today on a 172 but its rare that these faults are *actually* due to the pedal (normally its age vs corrosion) Mick

I always wondered about that Paul.

You can't really compare the two IMO. The Sabelt is a nice wheel if you have a dedicated track vehicle. In a road car I'm not a fan as they don't fit in with the standard interior, you loose cruise control (if fitted), they wear like a b**ch and then there's the MOT aspect. I'm also old so not...

Honestly, best £140 I've spent

I've not seen the car but I'd honestly question a heads gasket failure on an F4R just because its using a bit of water. More likely to be a leaky rad, hose or water pump imo but hey-ho. Just out of curiosity, does it still use coolant? If the fan is coming on straight away check the coolant...

When the iPad Mini gets Retina it'll be game over for the iPad.

I had a go for another customer recently and the side skirt is NLA as a separate item... whole kit only. Unless you drop super lucky finding one being broken your best bet is to buy a kit for the part you want and then break the rest to recoup some cash back. You could also replace both side...

Mk1 ph1 16v (F7R-710/712) will use speedo drive. Mk1 ph2 16v 16v used both F7R and F4R and both were ABS driven.

It has an OPC front grill, hence the Opel badge.

My 2yr old struggled to hold our iPad 3 so I've just moved to a Nexus 7 and it's perfect forbus all. I imagine the iPad Mini would be equally as good if you must have an Apple device for your child but I went with the Nexus 7 as the cost to replace was only £150-230 vs £270-349

LoLz at the kid with his eyes locked on target in picture 2. I think he spent all day like that. .

That sounds like either a minor air leak or incorrect timing.

Yes, anymore than a constant > 10 degrees whilst the vehicle is in motion the and it'll throw the general fault. Does the light only come on when you either turn the wheel or when you are driving (but not touching a pedal)?

Light Is on because your wheel isn't straight. Straighten the wheel and all will most likely be good again

It is air in your cooling system causing the problem so to fix it you need to bleed it correctly.

Mine just won't start first time when left standing over night but that's because of my fuel rail (its mahoosive) and the initial prime cycle isn't enough to properly fill it. Its just an age related thing I'm afraid

It's most likely going to be an air related issue rather than a sensor so try again.

If it revs fine when stood but won't when moving its more likely to be load related rather than an actual injector issue. diags needed but most likely a MAP, TP or H02 issue

As above, a brand new genuine clutch kit should not be heavy at all. LoLz at the attempt to upsell though, two thumbs up at the dodgy garage. He failed to sell you a £17 clutch cable to as thats easily another hours labour on top for them.