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For what you'd pay for a used box I'm with Nobby above with getting yours rebuilt and re-shimmed because they are fairly common and imo not fit for purpose. Just make sure you get an actual warranty and use a decent gearbox oil such as TransELF 'NFJ'
Its normally a sign of unburnt fuel entering the CAT but if you've not got one its unlikely to be that.
How dies the car run at idle and under partial load... any minor missfires, hesitation or signs of it feeling flat? Have those bodies been balanced yet?
Regarding the cabin filter, pull it...
I ditched O2 and recently switched to a smart phone tariff with Tesco mobile.
Monthly contract
3000min voice to any network/landlines
5000 sms
3Gb data
£20 a month including vat.
They do some others which are cheaper but the above was better than anything O2 could serve up. Two weeks in now...
If you don't have decent diagnostic kit then yes.
The problem is if yiu drive it to a garage and the issue only manifests at cild start then there won't be anything wrong to spot.
Of course if it's doing it all the time, irrgardless of engine temp then it won't really matter.
Not necessarily no, it could be an issue with the heater element but it could be the cts or something else. It needs a proper diagnostic session really, not a code read.
Not for data acquisition im not, it's way too much effort just to get coolant temp and engine speed to the dash so im sticking with analogue input. I believe the data transfer rate for the dash is really slow to so engine speed wouldn't update particularly fast and thats IF I could make it work...
This is also very true and is why it won't work with a standard ECU via CAN as Renault won't allow it. They do though provide the templates for some aftermarket ECU's which they have listed on the website but you have to read it in full and understand the information to before you buy as this...
It will fluctuate if you're gonna be live data logging from cold start but once the CAT is up to temp the voltage should be stable both at idle and when under load.
And just to add on what Chip said above regarding man handling the throttle plate, don't do it unless the TB is unplugged as the plate has been known to resist and fight back which only encourages you to press harder and break it.
The RaceTech Dash2 and Dash4 units are amazing products... just a shame you need a bloody PHD in applied mathematics to work out the sensor value conversion (unless you opt to buy/use CanBus)
This is the one that I nearly purchased... it did sound and look like a good base for a resto project but it needed more than I wanted to spend (don't panick, I'm a right tight fooker).
Enjoy it mate because part of me still regrets not buying this ph1 over a ph2.
Yeah the process of moving the config data is easy enough if you've got the equipment but the problem with UCH's are they are a ticking time bomb on every X65 on the road as at sime point a component will fail. I love my Clio and if it cost £280 for a new one vs £180 for a used one I'd go new...
The phase 2 does not have a dedicated IACV as the throttle plate is stepper motor controlled which performs the same role by advancing the throttle plate slightly as and when it's needed to stabalise the idle speed.
I personally find cleaning them out helps a great deal especially when they've...
It depends on the car. The older ones like the original Megane was four digits but in the Clio II CLIP requires a slightly longer code to allow/enter programming.