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Are you sure it has a low pressure lift pump? Most K9K's are vac fed

You need to look at what is happening when it cuts out. Sounds like a power outage to me.

That's going to be a tricky one to answer without seeing I'm afraid. A good place to start would be with diagnostics. Mick

Trouble with silicon is it will break down faster than the original seal and I have to warrant all my work so can't use DIY fixes like that

Face + Palm If its not on fire by morning I'll be surprised

Main Control Relay

Must've used MR349 "how ta do a clio Kam belt" #chuckles I for one always remove the engine to change belts LoLz

I had my Pearl Blacks re-done in a hi gloss silver... Really cleaned it up

Possibly - I'm assuming this 55 plate is the last of the X65/Clio II an not a Clio III... Correct?

UCH fault is most likely I'm afraid and needs properly looking at.

Sorry, just so I'm clear, I mean go from fully OFF on the rotary switch to full ON (not just to sidelights) Mick

Switch the headlight stalk ON - OFF quickly twice and see if that works. Mick

No, you've done a "code reading" session which has bought up a code relating to the flywheel target but hasn't offered any further explanation on the fault or how to resolve it. Like I said in my first post above the flywheel signal really needs "scoping" to see if the generated waveform looks...

Silver or bronze/gold would be my choice... Black on black has been done to death IMO Why not go for something else like a bright green?

Then the first port of call really needs to be a proper diagnostic session and go from there.

Mine did that to and only came on when you actually turned the stereo on. Turned out to be a blown fuse but the previous owner decided to remove the dash top, took a wire from the back of the stereo and ran it to the clock. That was so much easier than replacing a 10A fuse in the passenger side...

Easy one... Most likely corrosion on the main control relay terminals, faulty main control relay or corrosion to the 30A/15A fuses in the bay stopping power flowing properly.

Right, in that case get it plugged in. Guessing is unlikely to nail the issue straight away I'm afraid though at this point i suspect either a fuse, mcr or wiring fault. Mick

Okay, so we've got a map. How long ago was this done prior to the problems starting? I'm not trying to blame it but need a rough idea so it can be ruled out. We're the symptoms identical with the old CPS on or has it changed since fitting the auto factor CPS? Mick

Is the low voltage (what ever that actual reading is) specific/contained only to the injector(s) circuit or is it across the entire engine sensor array? Mick

I can send any JC/JB/ND/PK/TL box to be fully rebuilt by our guy for £400. He's an ex-Hewlands man so knows what he's doing and is local to us. You can either ship it to me or brig the car in and I'll remove/refit for £150 + consumables. I make nothing on the box refurb price btw and that price...

Because French car! My 172 did this for a week when the MIL just came on and off at random. Turned out to be the post CAT lamda so took it for a harsh of pure abuse around the back roads and now works perfectly. Sometimes they just don't like being stood.

It's also very easy/cheap to knock 50k off clocks or to simply change them to so always do your homework. Low mileage doesn't always been its been well cared for.

The compound is known for squealing especially when they're cold and at low speeds. My Mintex C1144's do it to and it can be embarrassing.

I'll try to explain but before i do, do you understand the basic role of the CPS and how the ECM treats the information it receives from it? Has any work been done to the car prior to these poor running symptoms occurring?

What pads have you fitted?

It needs a fused link mate. It may also flatten your battery. I'd advise you to repair the original circuit. Mick

Then you can either pay someone to do it for you or just buzz the bottom bolt off, swap the pulley, angle torque it up again (this part is very important) and see if you get lucky/mangle valves. If you're not gonna do the job properly I'd advise you don't do it at all... Not a personal dig btw

Scope it and see what the actual signal wave form looks like. You sure you got the wires the right way?

Had one last week: Needed a new seal as the original had come away from the roof sheet. Water was getting in under the frame and making some nasty marks on the head lining and seats.