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Sell body parts... Preferably other people's like the homeless.

It'll be the main seal mate, just done one last week. IIRC it's around £76 from Renault. Headlining down, unbolt the sunroof and remove. Clean and degrease the seal area thoroughly then reverse to refit and leave to cure Mick

I agree totally Fred, they can bend the laser tool which is why, just for clarification, I use the genuine MOT1496 unit but I use the AST4923 pulley lock tool as I personally find it better than the OE unit. But for a DIYer who's only going to use it once or twice attempting their own belt...

To me its Witchcraft... I can get an engine to run but that's all... Drive on a trailer and then off to a professional lol

I bought one to try and they're okay tbh. The laser kit is okay for occasional use but its not as thick as the genuine tool which can further increase the chance of getting it wrong because the cams do resist and try to turn even when held with the original tool. Yes it bends but only if you're...

You can't check the actual signal but you need to check the coded line's signal from the UCH to the decoder ring... The brown wire.

Good point James but isn't it like £1300?

Any auto factor or places like Halfords will sell you one but expect to pay over the odds for one.

Shouldn't do no. I'd still like it plugging in to be sure but that's not gonna happen so we can only start at the beginning and work thru.

Somedays though I can sympathise because they must get some proper stupid questions/customers... Saying "RTFM" is a simple but perfect solution to most queries I guess.

Replace the copper crush washer on the drain point to... Don't cheap out or it'll leak.

My S40 is running a single TOCA spec throttle on an F7R Chip so its not a huge issue but I've never looked at it potentially running an F4R... DTA tech support is a good as always so when you ask a question, the normal answer is "read the manual... If it says it can it will, if it don't it...

Okay, then now we need to check the UCH-Decoder ring signal line is continuous. If its not then the UCH isn't going to get the keys code. If the line is continuous the the key itself is most likely at fault. You can try a second hand decoder ring if you like to but don't pay too much for one as...

Don't do it - just save for an ECU and/or remap or else those pistons won't last. I'm personally using a DTA S40 Pro as its cheap as chips and does just what it's supposed to without any bells or whistles. You're kinda limited as you have VVC which my unit won't run so have to take this in to...

Lock it, unlock it and try again (this is the Renault equivalent of turning a computer off and on again). If its still failing, check your new fuse hasn't blown, then if it hasn't check one side of the fuse has power. Mick

Pre-heater circuit then... Possible but I've seen faulty EGR valves trigger this fault before to.

What car? Any symptoms?

Replace that fuse, there's your problem and NO... Do not replace it with a higher rated fuse!

Okay, I'm with you. Whilst you're there (at the car I mean) pull the fuse for the IMOB/UCH... I think its a 5A and make sure that's intact. Mick

LoL I love hearing home grown immobiliser bypass processes. If you are sure the new matches set is still doing the exact same thing as your original then you need to check the wiring. Start with the decoder as its three wires: Red - +5v Black - Earth Brown - Coded line to UCH Check for power...

I've seen that failure a couple I times now. Why it happens, I believe, is the bottom bolt comes out due to incorrect assembly and the alternator is pulled round by belt tension/force and it snaps the casting.

I actually LOL'd... Love that film

Every circuit needs power and earth. If one earth is poor then the circuit won't work. What makes you think the gearbox to body is the faulty earth, have you tested it? There's three earths under the bonnet for the EM/starting circuits so it could be either of them.

Firstly, i don't like throwing the "timing out" excuse but for what its worth/gonna cost pop the end caps, lock the crank at TDC and check to see if the horse shoe fits. If that's okay, compression test Mick

We do them for £560 on FF's including oil and filter or its £465 on a Cup Mick

If the readings are the same at idle/fast idle then there is a connection fault and you've missed something. Are you 100% sure you had the correct wires in the correct place? Mick

The problem is its a 1.2 16v and they're plagued with electrical gremlins that cause all kinds of problems. Firstly have the wiring loom at the back of the engine checked as its common for damage to occur in this area. Mick

So the voltage supply and earth are all good and the sensor and heater lines are continuous with the ECM?

The sensors themselves rarely die but the pins are common for degrading/corroding when water gets in so this should be your first check. If that's all good then you will need dings to confirm the resistance value is out of range and if so, replace it (or you could just take a gamble and replace...

Low voltage will be due to just that... Probably not a current fault. The lateral crash sensor is behind the sill trim and can be done without stripping the seat out but its tight. Mick