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Non of the faults listed above would cause a solid red light. Can you clear the codes or does it attempt and fail?

Fred is ace at electrics - fix it with fire is also another option

Hi all, ive got an issue and i need some help/advice after HPi'n a vehicle i've just purchased. Bare with me whilst I set the scene. The vehicle is a 2 owner '05 Scenic II with 17151 miles on the clock which i purchased from a customer that basically couldn't afford to fix it. It's nothing...

I'd say its more likely to be the motor bushes. They get wet and all kinds of problems can occur. Try hitting the motor assembly to see if it kicks in to life. Mick

States of the warning light have been covered before chap (to death and then some). LED flashing @ 1Hz - System armed (normal with key out) LED flashing @ 4Hz - System armed (Security check failed, key not recognised/authorised to start vehicle) LED on solid - Key recognised and authorised to...

It's unlikely to be master cylinder chap and more likely to be a calliper/pad sticking issue. If you're sure the pads are free am not sticking in the carrier then I'd say your first port of call should be to get the braking force and bias measured. It could even be a buggered flexi-section if...

I've only ever changed one decoder ring over the years and that was because someone broke it with a screwdriver forcing off the column plastics... They're normally bomb proof! If the keys are okay I'd personally suspect a UCH fault. Mick

Sounds like a cop out to me but just my 10p worth. Don't remove the immobiliser, please. Anyone with a screwdriver and a brain cell will be able to gain entry and drive your car away in seconds if you do.

As above, 100% Crank Sensor failure.... text book at that!

SAS Fault i'm afraid. It *may* simply need re-calibrating but it may also need replacing if its broken/damaged/duff/incorrectly installed. MIck

Had diagnostics yet? If so, maybe a good place to start before splurging out on guesswork guided by "The internet" If I had to guess, it sounds like either an EGR position fault, fuel pressure/regulation fault OR a fault with the glowplug heater relay but they're too complex to guess with i'm...

Yes but i'll level with you... I've not seen many damaged Sirus 32 ECM's before that weren't caused by people putting jump leads on the wrong way and even then its becuase they were stupid/persistant. You've more than likely got either a wiring/component or an earthing fault... time to start...

You've got paperwork so if it blows up it goes wrong, by law, the garage has to warrant the parts and labour for 12months. By comparison though, on a 172 Cup, timing belt/dephaser is £465 with us (diamond motors) and includes a genuine oil filter and ELF SXR oil change. It doesn't matter...

I've used them before without issue

The engine doesn't have to be moved anywhere. Just remove the drivers engine mount and your away and its easy on a Cup. Nice car btw, I really wanted one myself but couldn't find a decent one for less than £2.5k

Personally, I hate the sound of *most* stainless systems as they make your ears bleed when cruising so would opt to just replace for a standard system but that's me... Old, boring, ginger and likes Justin Bieber!

They become even cheaper if you know someone with a Trade Card.

Worst case, probably get you on other identifying features and then fined by the Nazis for not clearly displaying a plate on top. In a few weeks time just about every rep mobile will be like this and people will be lining up at garages to fill their washer bottles.

Normally, when they start sticking or locking up its a sign that a tolerance is wrong or something has badly worn internally. It will most likely do it again I'm afraid. I'd say you need it removing and inspecting chap. Any other problems like noise, stiff/loose selection? Not really, it...

It could be: PAS pump Aux belt kit idler Alternator Timing belt run My bet is on one of the first two items rather than timing belt but its best it be seen to be confirmed/denied. Mick

Simon, thanks again mate I'll be sure to take mine to them when I've finished faffing. So, how does it handle now?

Re: Xbox 360 update rolling out today - brings internt explorer to Xbox and smartscre I know but you're missing my personal point - Its a games console so just bloody leave it as that. I'm sure others use theirs as a media extender or a cheaky way of using their parents Sky account but I don't...

Hell will freeze before my Clio got that bad... I would bring it inside the workshop and wash it if I had to LoL

Bosch S3/S4 "062"... £48 from us so you should be able to find one for similar

TL4 takes 2.1/2.2 liters of "NFJ" IIRC On all 6 speed gearboxes there's a HOOGE yellow sticker that clearly states in multiple languages that these gearboxes are "NOT fill to overflow". In past experience of seeing NDx/PKx/TLx boxes over filled they tend to spew it out of the breather though...

^^^ THIS ^^^ If not, remove motors and replace them. Halfords sell a "Ring" aftermarket item that fits for £16 so don't be doing something stupid like buy it from Renault as they're around £48 each Mick

There's a few ways of checking but non of them are DIY i'm afraid as you'll need access to a minimum of a 2-channel scope and go thru each ignition coil one at a time. Flashing MIL's are **almost** always caused by faulty ignition or injection though not temperature.

Halfords Pro is a FACOM product from memory. They make Draper, MAC and a few others. For the money they're excellent value and top quality. No flank-drive though which is IMO great even though its no longer a Snap-On only thing.

I don't f**king want this MS... Jut let me play f**king games!!!!

No, you have to leave the SRS ECU in place so it can work the other units; pre-tensioners, inertia reels, passenger air bag, lateral crash sensors, etc If you have an ESP equipped vehicle this system uses the SRS inertia and G-Sensors to further prohibiting the removal of the SRS system. It can...