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ben, what exactly do you need to know.. I still think your problem is fuel related BTW.. if you want tech notes on the coolant sensor and fuel injection.. check out reno tns TN 3175 A and TN 3169 A (from Dialogys) Joe.

Hi Tubs.. same advice as for GR.. look at the standards on the tub.. if it matches the first post spec.. then great, it will be fine.. I would personally change the oil at more frequent intervals. Oil is cheap.. and a reasonably safe investment in longevity. ps.. one recomendation I...

the answer,, GR .. is to use ANY make of oil (Preferably the cheapest)... that conforms to the above standard. I have no real personal preference.. oil is oil is oil... (I use gtx simply cost its the best value near me.. you may find a similar product cheaper) same as petrol is...

Hi Tony. there will come a limit where the chassis isnt cpapable of handling the power.. probably before the mechanicals .. the key to turbo charging (IMHO) is to make the delivery controllable through proportional boost control. (And possibly gear position sensors ) as for munching...

tim, have a look down the front of the engine bay where the alternator is.. in order - top to bottom, the units are, alternator, power steering, air con pump. the green fluid is confusing me... does the aircon pump look to be still in place ??... and in one piece ??. you may have...

the a3 recomendation is in renos tech library for this year. (I would go for a3) Joe

Teady.. I will give ya 95 quid for it if you are so dissapointed ?? Joe..

ben, what exactly do you need to know.. I still think your problem is fuel related BTW.. if you want tech notes on the coolant sensor and fuel injection.. check out reno tns TN 3175 A and TN 3169 A (from Dialogys) Joe.

the turbo may well run fully synthetic. will let you know later Joe

Hi Tony (TB1) there will definitely be an upper limit of the exhaust turbine (usually keeping it to within max rpm for the bearing cartridge is the problem ) re injectors / fuel pump... the turbo injectors are already higher flow at a lower pressure than the 172 ones. and the fuel...

Hi Tubs.. same advice as for GR.. look at the standards on the tub.. if it matches the first post spec.. then great, it will be fine.. I would personally change the oil at more frequent intervals. Oil is cheap.. and a reasonably safe investment in longevity. ps.. one recomendation I...

the answer,, GR .. is to use ANY make of oil (Preferably the cheapest)... that conforms to the above standard. I have no real personal preference.. oil is oil is oil... (I use gtx simply cost its the best value near me.. you may find a similar product cheaper) same as petrol is...

Hi Tony. there will come a limit where the chassis isnt cpapable of handling the power.. probably before the mechanicals .. the key to turbo charging (IMHO) is to make the delivery controllable through proportional boost control. (And possibly gear position sensors ) as for munching...

tim, have a look down the front of the engine bay where the alternator is.. in order - top to bottom, the units are, alternator, power steering, air con pump. the green fluid is confusing me... does the aircon pump look to be still in place ??... and in one piece ??. you may have...

the turbo may well run fully synthetic. will let you know later Joe

Hi Tony (TB1) there will definitely be an upper limit of the exhaust turbine (usually keeping it to within max rpm for the bearing cartridge is the problem ) re injectors / fuel pump... the turbo injectors are already higher flow at a lower pressure than the 172 ones. and the fuel...

Simple.. if the oil is approved to standard ACEA A3 (And it will say it on the side of the tub ).. then you are fine. Joe

Hiya Ben m8 when you start adding or taking away bits of mr renos creation.. you really need to have a grasp. Often it involves removing something to get at what you want. sometimes its logical what the item does.. sometimes you need a manual to assist. If you are not really into the...

Simple.. if the oil is approved to standard ACEA A3 (And it will say it on the side of the tub ).. then you are fine. Joe

Hiya Ben m8 when you start adding or taking away bits of mr renos creation.. you really need to have a grasp. Often it involves removing something to get at what you want. sometimes its logical what the item does.. sometimes you need a manual to assist. If you are not really into the...

please see my reply under the mods forum re strut braces.. Joe

ok Roamer ma man.. firstly, for the strut brace to work as designed.. it needs to be bracing the towers.. NOT THE STRUT TOPS !!!!!!! think about it guys ! the strut top is rubber mounted.. movement of one is transmitted to the other.. oooooooooops !!.. not what we intended.! to...

Hi Daz, well m8.. by 1.7 or 6.3% apx deciding which you go for. acceleration will suffer.. on a 0-60 it will be as normal or there abouts as wheel spin is a tad more difficult to induce, and the higher 1st gear will help.. but at useful measuring points.. ie - 50-70 and 80-110 - you will...

no, you need not bleed the cooler as it is in the main circuit.. it is best to diconnect the coil or igntition if poss to pump up pressure after first fitting it, but not absolutely necessary. Joe..

wow Tim m8.. that looks pretty terminal. is there any chance of getting a close up of what is poking out of the sump protector ?? Joe.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/captainslarty/oils.jpg straight from the reno tech info.. running happily on my Mac emulator .. Joe

TB1 and BarryD.. the turbo IS designed for this engine.. there is already an F4R variant with Turbo... regarding the scooby.. you may well be correct.. but the exhaust turbine on the td04 is certainly capable of flowing the required cfm within its safe operating limit. The difference...

please see my reply under the mods forum re strut braces.. Joe

Hi Daz, well m8.. by 1.7 or 6.3% apx deciding which you go for. acceleration will suffer.. on a 0-60 it will be as normal or there abouts as wheel spin is a tad more difficult to induce, and the higher 1st gear will help.. but at useful measuring points.. ie - 50-70 and 80-110 - you will...

no, you need not bleed the cooler as it is in the main circuit.. it is best to diconnect the coil or igntition if poss to pump up pressure after first fitting it, but not absolutely necessary. Joe..