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Probably blocked drain points... Check and clean them

We're all good thanks and not had any Cups in for a few weeks now. Seems to be Meg II's at the minute and today's is one which starts 80% of the time and the remaining times the network can't see the ECU or it's just not recognised #fun

Okay, I think this is correct (colours may be wrong) MAP Pin - Colour - Description A - Green - Earth B - White - Signal C - Beige - Supply

Speak for yourself - I hit the Veet hard this morning and I'm all streamlined and smooth now. Seriously though, it's not a 12mph jaunt but it's not a 30mph endurance race either and it would be good to get some others out during the week. Mick

Front according to the notes ;)

CPS Is a good guess but can't give any assurances without seeing the car I'm afraid.

SAS is either broken or out of alignment

What phase loom mate? It makes a difference to wire colour... I can get you the pinout once I'm in work though. Mick

The Vibratec mount is good but bloody pricey

Sorry, slightly off topic - Aren't modern Pentax SLR's a Nikon lens fitment anyway? Mick

You got it fixed then?

That'll do it Ross, has it broken in two?

Yes, I've done a couple before... Pray, swear an curse it! Car jacked up, drivers wheel off and arch liners out (liners out to allow access to lower servo area/brake pipe access on ABS cars). Support engine, remove engine mount and slide it towards the front of the car as much as possible...

As Foxy said and no, you won't be able to just plug it in. You'd have to essentially put all the ph1 wiring and components into your ph2 to get it working as the looms are different both inside the car and under the bonet.

We actually use ST Auto for our top end paintwork... Not the cheapest but the work is top class Mick

I like my iPhone and iPad but I miss my Blackberry as a mobile work tool... 4s standard email just isn't as good as it is on RIM.

Coil pack or pencil coils? Load of BS if it's a coil pack especially genuine parts and they're not at all common. Obviously cheap parts are generally crap and should be avoided at all cost when it comes to ignition parts (IMO). Individual pencil coils are prone to failing especially the cheap...

That's not the TB at fault then.

Yes, I would need the car and any/all keys you have for it. I don't think they work on the newer cars

It's beeping to say there's a door open and that the alarm cannot set. Added to the interior light staying on I'd say you've got a door sensor in open circuit. Mick

We do them for £340 coded

It's not a locking pin on the K9K it's a setting pin so don't use it to undo the pulley bolt or else you'll bend it which will put you in a whole world of s**t!

Check the basics first! IGNITION: Are the plug leads on properly ad in the correct order? SENSORS: Are they all plugged in? INJECTION: Are all the injectors correctly connected up? I've done this before myself and found a car to miss or run lumpy because a connector wasn't seated right. Mick

Get it plugged in - sounds MAP sensor-ish

4th wire is for noise suppression and as Fred said not needed. Normally it's 1 - ECU/IGN controlled +12v 2 - ECU trigger Cyl 1/4 3 - ECU trigger Cyl 2/3

No, use the specified 5w/40 if you're going by the ICS/OCS service clock.

My friend has a GSi and that wasn't quick enough so we dropped a 3.0 in from an MV6 up front. Much nicer now but what is with the silver steering wheel in them?

I'd say yes but obviously I've not seen the car.

Test it with a meter... I bet you've got 12v one side and less on the other

No, sorry. CLIP only has the ability to reprogram an ECM with standard Renault software and cannot adjust hardware or re-code. I've got a feeling the Sirus34 is a devil to get de-coded unlike the Sirus32