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Yeah it's very easy to blow being a 2A. Glad that saved some effort though Mick

Is there a 2A? I know it if I see it and it's a small one

I bet it's the connector at fault but again, really needs a diag session to confirm. It's two wires and worst case is you get em the wrong way round an it won't start so just flip em over and then solder them up... It's not hard to do.

They should although I don't have those anymore. Current rim of choice = Compomotive TH2's

The first thing I notice in that advert is the line "OE Quality"... Normally translates to "piece of s**t" part. Personally at this stage I would have it plugged in by someone competant but this time forget the fault codes and go for the live data. If when cranking you see the engine speed...

Here's my 19 although I've gotta be honest... It's not a factory 16v Used to look like this:

I have a 19 also but it's currently on SORN (which is where it's been for the past 4yrs)

Which crank sensor have you fitted though, black or blue? Also, genuine part or auto factor "fuel parts" item? I ask as its possible the cps is still the issue but due to a wiring fault rather than the sensor itself. The new Blue unit has a new loom section and greatly reduces the number of...

The standard vehicle security is tied in to a "matched set" comprising of Key fob(s), UCH and ECM. You need a matching set I'm afraid or a decoded ECM (however a decoded ECM will still trigger a flashing LED on the dash if the UCH hasn't authorised the vehicle to start). Mick

Check the state of the three blade fuses in the engine bay fuse box (30A, 15A and 5A) and make sure they're all clean and free of corrosion. Replace the fuses if necessary. Mick

It's an ignition/UCH switched live and it is (iirc) NOT 12v but 5v. Passenger side fuse box, look for the 5A UCH fuse... It's from there. Mick

As above...I honestly doubt it's a genuine ECU failure. Sounds like either a clutching issue or an oil pressure related problem. Fred loves BVM changes I believe ;)

Re: CLIO IV RS for 2013, Last news It wouldn't be as desirable for me in a 3door flavour tbh

Re: CLIO IV RS for 2013, Last news ^^^ This right here ^^^ This would go home and do your mum and sister at once... Deviant RS On a separate note, I wish I could use PS like this

Faulty alternator is the best guess at the minute. Need to check the output when running though to confirm/deny Mick

[i]"Surely you can just wind out da actuator on da terbo yeah and run 1Bar?"[\i] It'll be governed by at least 2 boost pres. sensors I'd guess and anyone daft enough to try it on standard management will just see flashing lights and no boost then be in need of a trip to the dealers. I still...

See how it goes but I have a massive distrust for EODB codes ("P" Codes) so if you're still having the problem get it on a proper diagnostic rig. Mick

If there's two then yes, in absence of diagnostics swap em over and see if it fixes the poor cold start and idle. Mick

I'm with Dan in this one. As "it" (the high idle) also goes when warm it does sound like a poor seal allowing air to circumvent the inlet track (a leak). K-Tec really shouldn't have played with the idle IMO but that's deffo not the cause of the issue so start with the last thing done and go...

Okay so im guessing it has been mapped by Andy? If so, has Andy lowered the idle site to make it idle lower?

Both? In that case I'd start by checking/changing if required the H02 as the knock sensor may just be doing its job

Is it on a standard inlet still? I'm assuming so. Who lowered the idle and how is my main question as this number is ECU determined. Finally, it only does this at cold yeah and once warmed up it achieves and maintains a stable sub 1k rpm? Mick Diamond Motors

Codes aren't date stamped so you can never be sure what is current vs what is historic. Normally I'd advise against clearing the codes as you wipe the context information but in this case I'd be tempted to wipe it and take it for a short drive to see which comes back as current then go from...

Jesus Dan, what's with you ATM - period? I did read the first post and he said: So it had belts but no pulley and now he would like some quotes and advise on getting the pulley changed... Which I believe is what I did. Just because I mentioned saving money as you did, did you assume I was...

Mint news mate but don't count those chickens just yet... French car! (LoLz) Mick

Code reading it on CLIP or other equipment won't show much at all but looking at the live data and going from there will. Like ChipMk1 said in another thread, generally "mechanics" are good at fitting parts but rarely do they know how the internals and sensors actually work. With that in mind...

Needs plugging in again to say for sure mate. Sounds like a target issue to me

I'd check it personally and if there's signs of excessive play I'd change it if it's noisy or not. Timing belt and dephaser changed at Diamond Motors to CS members is £560 using genuine parts and belt kits. Its okay saving a bit of cash and if thats your driving constraint we'll do timing...

We only fit the Valeo kits to due to bad experiences with LUK

Throttle restriction problems (more commonly called "limp" mode) are so much easier to diagnose on CLIP as there are 14 different status codes alone which report why limited range/engine performance alone is being put in to effect. There's no black and white rule that says it won't r RB above...