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When was the cabin filter last changed? The bomb is a good way to go but first get to the source of the problem. Mick Diamond Motors

Those codes mean nothing to me. What did he use to read the car with an old Snap-On brick?

They did but would you trust it? Renault also used to say Turbo petrol/diesel vehicles had 18,000m service intervals and look how that turned out!

Yeah I saw that but it doesn't mean the ATS itself is the fault - Live data check it after cleaning the TB and go from there. Mick

It sounds like you've got a few issues here which may/may not be linked. The first, the cutting out issue, is fairly common and normally attributed to a seriously fouled TB. Common symptoms are dodgy idle, poor response and cutting out. Simply clean it and refit and you should fix this one. The...

We do them for £335 with genuine parts but we are in Nottingham

It could be a genuine decoder ring fault so check the connections there: Black - Ground Red - +5v Brown - transponder code line to UCH If this checks out id suspect the UCH Mick

UCH screen > Live data > is the key shown as "recognised" or "authorised"?

Its a very simple job to do - Did one yesterday for a guy that was driving in a straight line but showing +355 degrees.

Looks like the MTU isn't switching something on/off so check the basics (power and earth connections) then start looking for signs of water ingress into the cabin area behind the dash near the MTU. Mick

Could be a clutch but the juddering could also be a buggered engine mount. Really it needs looking at to properly diagnose chap. There's no black and white rule as to how long a clutch will last. Depends entirely on who's driving it and how. Mick

Lumpy running on these is standard especially at cold (it's a bit s**t tbh) and the oil temp sounds about right to. I believe they run a water cooled plate but it's not really an oil cooler "as such" Mick

At the minute we do the belt service (with water pump and coolant) for £430 using genuine belt kits and parts. Mick Diamond Motors

This is why I have a matched UCH/Key set as a test rig for the common vehicles as it saves expensive guess work. So if the components you mention are coming up in red on the network schematic it means they've either checked in but have issues or they've not been recognise/detected. Lets forget...

Welcome to my world! It looks/sounds like its missing multiplex information to me hence the missing ID's (I've got a Megane II dCi in with similar problems that had a UPC after water ingress that started once and then after parking up hasn't gone again since). I assume you've confirmed the UCH...

Does it go back to "0" when you turn it off or does it stay put? Gut feeling is someone has played with the needle or the pointer is just broken and not fixed to the spindle correctly. Mick

1.2 by any chance? #standard You hopefully have a deep 14mm socket to hand. If so just gently keep tapping it over the plug with a hammer until you get purchase on the hex. Smash it like Chuck Norris and you're fucked so, and I emphasise this point, go easy!

If I could beat you on a flat I'd be happy

Mate all jokes aside its done you well... But Michael Douglas wants it back when you're done faffin around

Paul, I think I know what he's doing. He thinks that if he rides it fast enough he'll go back in time to the 80's when it was new LoLz

Beeston CC putting you thru it hard then?

Not really; you're looking for damaged sections of wiring in the wiring loom around the gearbox area. May be a power or earth issue also. If you want drop it in and I'll fix it. Mick Diamond Motors

Deffo something amiss here and I'd honestly get it checked out cos my Laguna GT does 32-33mpg driving it on boost and that's an F4Rt If you're really driving an NA F4R carefully you should be seeing 38mpg on the clockset IMO.

Sounds like poor integrity or air in the lines to me mate.

And your position relative to the pub ;)

Use a decent 10w/40 semi-synth or a 5w/40 fully-synth... 4.2l

That's an average... Daves bike is straight outta the 80's but it was a good one. It's his transmission that lets him down now. Saying that's we had a sprint the other day and both saw 33mph so it can't be that bad.

Why, did Luke help to fit it? LoLz

Correct - The upper covers double as the cam carriers. To remove the covers you have to remove the timing belt AND remove the camshaft pulleys. It's also worth noting that the horse-shoe is not a lock tool designed for removing the pulleys. Try it and you'll either bend the horse-shoe and/or...

I'd have said power steering pressure switch from the First pic but after seeing the second I'd say it's more likely to the the acoustic valve behind the passenger head lamp.