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Sam, the car won't go in to limp mode matey but please, don't reset the light if it's not been serviced. I think I'm alone on this but it really annoys me when people do this as you're not only lying to yourself but the engine needs basics such as oil and filters replacing to keep it running...

I used to do them but tbh, once they go you tend to fid they keep going and it gets annoying seeing the same units come backwards and forwards all the time. It's your call but I'd recommend you just just bite the bullet and get a new one. Mick

They'd need to be tested electrically before you go off and start buying "miracle products" Start with a proper diagnostic session and go from there. Mick

No, it's unlikely to be something a code reader will flag up

It could be loads of things but check the brake pedal switch first and try to reset it (See guide in members section) as its free to DIY Ideally needs diagnostics though I'm afraid. Mick

Deffo a UCH fault this, we've seen a few. Ideally needs a new one or you could try for a repair... Will never be right though. I think we charge about £340 for them supplied, coded, etc Mick

Any warning lights on and has it done it since? Crank sensor, fuel pressure, injectors are all possibles.

Gutted but it's kind of inevitable... People see one person slow at a corner to then hoon it up a straight or thru a corner section then another tries it and before long everyone is lining up to have a go - you can't cruise the lap then because you're stuck waiting behind three cars and getting...

So are thy saying the spray shield is missing or not? Obviously there's a problem... Very "reputable" this gearbox specialist is turning out to be!

How could the OP have done this damage by driving it? It's been in for a Valve timing fault already which I'd guess they've bodged and it's gone wrong. Personally I'd want the covers off for a proper look see with an impartial/independent not in the pocket of the trader to assess the actual...

Get a solicitor to write another letter for you... That will cost but will kick them in to action so money well spent. Sounds like a rocker has flipped and gotten trapped/broken. No doubt loss of compression is causing the non start and it's no doubt mashed the camshaft. Mick

They already have them... Well, should have.

You've got the correct breather in yeah? You aren't putting too much oil in so if the breather is correct it's only fair they take a look at it again as there's clearly a problem.

Nope, most likely a back feeding earth

Did he fix the original problem? What was the problem? Mick

It's due a service but please, don't reset the service clock if it hasn't been serviced... The car needs it and you're only lying to yourself. Traders ask me to do this for them all the time and I refuse.

They won't fix it, they will most likely want to replace the gearbox.

You can do it yes but you will need the UCH reconfiguring so it knows about the new type of speedo head that you've fitted. If you don't the digital section won't work correctly as it'll still be setup for the analogue setup so fuel, data and temp sections will be wrong without calibration.

I'm certain it's wiring and not a component fault but as money is a constraint I didn't want to waste time. The solenoid valve is totally unconnected but "French car" so never say never and I have one as a test rig. The problem is the bloody car performs faultlessly when it comes to the...

Pete, to fully remove the engine loom and check it over (from me) would be around 4hrs labour (around £180). If you wanted a fully bespoke harness for the entire car I'd need to speak to you in person. Mick

I think it was DF129... I'm going from memory here and really need my notes on his car to say for sure so it could've been DF125 or similar. Deffo a pedal track incoherence fault though.

The main fault that appears to be the root cause of Petes problem is DF129 (I think from memory) which reads as an incoherence issue between track 1 and track 2 of the pedal. Normally this fault is caused by a faulty pedal potentiometer itself or there's a fault in the loom between the pedal and...

All tested Dan and actuating fine. I even had it running on another customers Cup (which the customer kindly agreed to)

Harv, That's one of the possibles we gave him but we didn't want to waste his cash as his car has had the wiring loom re-routed from its original design... That area being one. It is where most issues seem to be with these cars but we've also seen a few Cups with dash loom problems also. Mick

I know you wasn't matey, don't panic... Things like this frustrate the hell out of me because I know Pete's not a mental that invents fictitious faults so it obviously happened (and apparently has done since). It'll deffo be a minor issue with a wiring loom but it's finding it. Boosh had a...

Yes, fo'shizzle providing you put in a decent infrastructure to hook it up. Personally I'd ditch everything Renault put in and start again.

Not with any certainty because the car performed flawlessly in testing so if I can't find anything wrong I can't fix it. This wasn't a simple code reading session either and I normally have a high success rate with these kind of gremlins but I scoped, probed, prodded and metered just about...

I can't speak for where to send you as both will do a good job but I always advise my customers that if they can afford to do the dephaser to do so purely for piece of mind... Chances are its never been done before and we've had a string of them lately which weren't noisy but did show move...

Times are hard for everyone mate but buy cheap, buy twice (or three times in your case). Buy a genuine Valeo refurb from Renault... You might be surprised at the price ;) Mick

Why even disconnect it? I leave the pump and joints intact and simply pull it of the block accessory mount then leave the pump floating in the bay and then lift the lump clear... Works with A/C to (if you have it) Mick