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Oh, I'm sorry for being busy but it was only two weeks... I never take bookings any further in advance than that as people tend to go elsewhere without letting us know. You managed to get a booking in for your timing belt okay though and then cancelled it so getting a date obviously isn't that...

I just happen to have one sat under my work bench all wrapped up and ready to "go" It came from a running car btw that was broken for parts. I foolishly fell for a sob story and broke the head from the B/E for a guy and as the B/E was in my way I scrapped the block (but pulled the crank/rods...

Apparently not if local-ish people are using Mr Clutch over that price LoLz

Ah yes, now I remember... Timing belt as well.

I knew I wasn't the only one and as you are queer... It's amazing we have something in common ;) Also subscribed x

Wounded to hear this news Dave but yeah, it's a common failure when the automatic tensioned aux belts fail. Is the engine completely dead (ie: piston ninjas have been in and stolen a pot out of the bottom end) or are we just talking about 8-12 bent valves and a new timing belt? Mick Diamond Motors

Hmm, I can't remember anyone getting in touch asking to change a clutch on a Clio II recently but that said I've had a bit to drink today (guilty). Thanks anyway... Hopefully he'll get his money back

I'm in Nottingham and supply/install OE Valeo kit for £380 and includes for new gearbox oil to. Mick Diamond Motors

All I read was "I took my car to Mr Clutch" and then I started laughing... Knowing them, they've fitted the friction material backwards. I can also believe they've tried to tell you they have done the job twice because generally they hire t***s with no experience or qualifications. How much...

It's a cup thing... Well, it's always cups I see do this never FF's Could be a CTS issue or problem with the pedal, the TB or the wiring between the two. Needs seeing to say I'm afraid. Mick

IF it has one it will be next to the fuel tank on the underside of the vehicle (drivers side normally) however, it could also have the in tank unit in which case leave well alone. Mick

It depends on the condition of the turbo but normally, a bearings and seal overhaul (retail) is around £180 and it comes fully refurbished looking like new with a warranty. I've sent them loads over the years and I've only ever had one come back (sods law, it was my own) which they turned...

You knows it f**k-nutz x

The 225/R26/27 bottom pulley is over twice the diameter of the 172/182 equivalent so it's obviously going to make it faster due to the increased rolling radius. Be careful though as the increase in radius will require more torque to make it turn so the engine won't rev up as fast... Maybe...

I was panicking then until I read your Dad has access to balancing equipment... It's doomed to fail without! Midland Turbo will hook you up for sure as they do all our Turbo work. Mick

School boy error... I've done it before myself (I've also forgetten to reconnect the clutch cable before to).

+1 Then kick him in the ****!!! What a complete Jeb-end.

Jesus, i'd have stopped him there and then if I'd seen him routing wires around the doors... It's the "I'll have a go" attitude that starts fires!

I'm afraid I'm out of ideas then chap and would need to see it to be able to hit it. Mick

Also, the waste gate won't open/close whilst giving it beans at idle.

You're lucky that 100shot of NOS didn't blow the welds on the intake... Seriously though, you've got a leak somewhere. Check the manifold/turbo gaskets and the full pipework/FMIC. The waste gate does open on the small dCi turbo but it takes a fair bit of effort to manually actuate them.

Nottingham - its a nice drive ;)

Have you checked the main power supply wiring for signs of damage?

Could be a UCH fault but it will most likely be a poor connection somewhere on the starter circuit as its bumping. If you want me to take a look for you then give me a shout and I'll book you in. We've got a 182 coming in tomorrow for diagnosis of a suspected UCH so it seems they're in fashion...

You've got a few issues from what I can see but honestly, it's going to need looking at properly to resolve them. A new H02 is likely to be the cause of the poor performance but id sooner test it and see what the gases are doing before advising you spend out on one. There's nothing worse than...

Pulsing how? That sounds like a relay fault or a very badly corroded fuse

Personally id advise you against a bypass device as anyone can start your car once inside. Oh and no, if it was an immobiliser fault the led would be flashing at 4hz I promise you, the imob is not your problem an you most likely have a wiring fault. If you wanna waste £100 though go ahead and...

CLIP won't really tell you anymore in situations like this. You need to understand the systems, how they're wired and what it is that's not working... This will be a simple issue causing the problem but it's finding it that'll be the tricky part.

I use CLIP but likely hood of you having access where you are is slim. I'd say try an ELM based interface 327 or better and then one of the many free pieces of EODBII software to see what the ECU is seeing.

Red light is saying key accepted, imob disarmed but a key system is not reporting in over CAN so no start. Check the gearbox area for damaged wires in the loom and I'd also pull the three fuses in the engine bay fuse box, clean em an replace Mick