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The carrier itself moves back and forth mate. You need to push it out (away from the car). Mine was a b**ch to move on one side. Obviously screw the piston in all the way though.

we can but dream :approve:

Speak to Tom or James for JMS. They sell them, or at least used to. Any you can get them embroided if you want ;)

airbag wires under the seat. Really common fault on renaults.

Sounds like your steering angle sensor has gone mate. When you start the car up does all the lights turn off, and when you move the wheel very slightly they all come on?

Turn your lights on, heat will remove it.

Stop being a whimp and push it ;) Or get a man to do it :rasp: If it's not the battery it might be a case of resyncing the keys with the UCH unit. A decent key programmer would do it, or if you know someone with Renault CLIP. Otherwise it's off to the dealers i'm afraid. Battery is the first...

Was the battery light on mate? If the alternator is going the light usually comes on while driving. Are you sure it's not the battery on the way out? Cold weather tends to affect them. Stored voltage might be ok, but crank amps will be low.

Battery might be on the blink. Crank amps might be low. Cold weather setting in.

Just turn the lights on. The heat from the bulbs should shift it.

Medium compound mate. Not much point in the softs to be honest. The medium have more than enough stickiness to them. Softs will just wear out too quickly.

if the fan got weaker and weaker it could be the motor slowly failing? Was it still blowing both hot and cold? Door lock seems strange.

Going to be a nice bill for you there mate. What's your cost estimate on it all?

Fan might be the resistor pack (think that's the name of it) which is found under the scuttle panel. Door lock seems strange though? When you turn the key, the lock doesn't move?

mike was selling a twin pipe 172 exhaust, not sure if he sold it. (182 immitation)

UPDATE: Clio won't start So looks like it's not an immobiliser fault :S. I put a second ECU/UCH combo on tonight and it made no difference. All the same CLIP info/problems were apparent. Soooo frustrating this.

Adjustment Table didn't transfer correctly. He're what that stuff should say :);

SCRUBBING IN. The R888 tyre is fully cured and therefore does not require heat cycling but it is recommended that the tyres are scrubbed to remove any mould release chemicals. Toyo recommend that the tread temperatures are raised gradually over a few laps to avoid graining. TREAD TEMPERATURES...

You'll not get the compound hot on the road no, but it still grips when cold. Winter tyres are poo in snow. Only tyres that are good in snow is studded ones. ;)

nice little meet that mate. Lots of old cars in great condition. Have you guys not discovered the ph2 172/182 over there yet?

go for 195s mate. don't know any tyres that are good in the snow. More show less go!! r888's in the wet are fine, even with standing water. Dry track and they're emmense.

lol jesus Mike. Could have got yourself an ex cup race car for that, and had spares with it.

Your airbag light was causing your issues? wierd? Reprogrammed my keys tonight with no success. Immobiliser can't be reprogrammed unless you completely wipe the UCH unit. I'm not sure if that will work either. I've got a second hand ECU/UCH coming so fingers crossed that will sort it.

brake fluid low mate.

code for the UCH might have been lost mate. Flashing light might be due to one of the keys losing the code. Solid light one still has the code, but it's not being relayed to the ECU from the UCH.

could also be abs ring, sensor etc. Few options mate.

does sound like something is draining your power mate. You sussed it yet?

If you need it running on clip mate, drop me a PM. Not too far from you

id love to know how changing the wheels around causes the steering wheel to be out. Very wierd.

You know i'm not far away mike if you want if plugging in ;)