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Sounds pretty normal to me mate. When cold, they don't really pull tbh. Idle does rev up and down even when warm. Lambda might be on the way out though, but it might just be the downstream one as the upstream sensor would cause you all sorts of issues.

It sounds like a relay or UCH issue to me mate. I'm having the same issue with mine at the mo. It's lost it's code for some reason. You need to get it on clip really to give you a better understanding of the problem. Get the auto eleccy to check the relays, and signal before an after relay, but...

Just get a second hand CAT mate. There is a 182 being broken here at the moment. Won't cost you much. Around £50 ish probably.

pics? It's usually just attacked via a bracket to the chassis somewhere.

what system have you plugged it into mate? seems a bit strange. When you say silly amounts, what mpg you getting?

there is a company on ebay that refurbs, but not sure if they will buy them off you mate.

Standard pads for road, ds2500 for track and road, and then if it's a pure track car, there are loads of compounds (nice and pricey mind).

would it not just be cheaper to get a cheap car for "just in case events?", rather than having a spare engine/GB lying around. Second hand GB and engine will set you back around 800quid ish. Plus you'll be looking at similar mileage on them if you do get a ph1 engine. 172 cup also used the same...

as said, really easy. Jack up the rear, put axle stands on both rear jacking points. Put the jack on the middle of the rear beam (just to support it when you remove the shocks, although if you do them one at a time it might not be too bad). Loosen top first, then do the 18mm rear bolt. Then...

why not get the roof, bonnet and mirror CF sheeted? Bit different. White roof is a bit extreme for me Dawn. Don't listen to the masses, the Vee should look stunning and clean. You can't have the best of both worlds. You're either into detailing or tracking. I've tried doing both and it doesn't...

looks well mate :approve:

Nope, but the smart price one taste better ;)

Never a truer word said :approve:

Good idea John. What's the record we need to beat? Or is it going to be a new one?

It's really simple yeah. Just make sure things are nice and tight and refit the rear disc spacers on hub side

you'll need a screw driver for the rear disc too. 1 for screwing the caliper back in, and one for knocking the pad holding in piece of metal thingy.lol. You'll know what I mean when you see it. At the bottom of the rear pads. I've done a guide, but there are a few others too.

Have to kind of agree, although there is a bit much roll for me. Although I still want some KW or ASTs at some point. Prolines made quite a bit of difference on track for me. Get some r888s and you'll notice such a difference on track.

Just a few options for you. K-tec tend to be slightly more expensive, but it gives you an idea; KW: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=1075&appid=2 Koni: http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=610&appid=2 There are more choices obviously. As said though, the more you...

Best option really. Someone gave me a quick blast on their AST's and they were very good and not very crashy at all. ;) Thanks Dan

Do a weeee search my boy, lots and lots of info on this. As it's a thursday though ;), koni adjustables and eibach prolines would be a good choice. But you'd still be looking at around 500-600quid i'd imagine.

as said, thinner, polishing or aggressive clay will remove. If it's really bad polishing might be the only way. Will be a pain. If you're polishing it though, make sure it's dried, otherwise the process won't work.

Wierd that Paul. I'm paying around £450 now I think , with 3 years NCB at 26. Which grade do you fall into; DE Derby 1, 3, 22, 55 . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . C 4, 12, 14-15, 45 . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . A 5-7, 11, 13, 56, 65, 72-75 . . . . . . . . . . B 21, 23-24 . . . . . . . . ...

If they look small ish they are 15", normal size and they'll be 16". Not seen his car in a while, so can't think. Don't get them sprayed, powder coating is the way to go. They will sandblast or acid dip the wheels, and then coat them. Loads of options on colours, finishes etc.

I'd imagine that any eurocarparts, GSF etc would stock them. Fitting wise, they are in a pig of a place. I'm not sure if you need to remove the exhaust mani to get to them. It's a bit tight in there.

Which fixings mate? The bots that hold it to the car? You could just use any old bolts really. Either that, or give Mocal a bell and ask for a spare set.

Thanks Paul. Got an auto eleccy out today to have a look. Fuel pump primes on mine though. I've tried earthing the ECU manually also, but this has no effect. :(

Yeah but that's Ktecs top turbo with uprated rods/pistons etc. Think that goes up to around 300bhp ish.

Where is this attached to Dave?

crank sensor might be on the way out. Turning the key fast should have no effect on it starting tbh

Car looked and sounded great guys :)