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I believe a 5w/30 is also acceptable but the spec says 5w/40 fully synthetic.

Not really, it can spin for a number of reasons... Contamination of the mating faces (not degreased). Damage to the mating faces. Damage to the camshaft threaded boss. Incorrect torque and angle tightening. Old retaining nut re-used. Incorrect belt tension. Camshaft damage. Etc... The inlet...

30mpg sounds a little too low and you should be seeing 36-38mpg on the clockset with normal driving around town. As for the MIL states, a flashing MIL denotes a fault with the injection or ignition has been detected that has potential to damage the CAT. A solid MIL denotes a problem with the...

Could be the CTS, H02 or the station but I'd guess, without seeing the car, it's the CTS

You cannot re-code a UCH, they are write once bits of kit. You will need to have yours repaired or replaced with a new 'virgin' one that will then need coding up (on CLIP) or you need to replace your key fob, ECU and UCH with a matched set from another car. Mick

I just wouldn't trust an insurance policy to be that comprehensive

Multimeter, a keen eye and patience.

Correct, I made the assumption we were talking about a Sport and went on to auto-type... My bad. With regards to the coils though, if one doesn't make a difference then that's your problem child. If they all make it run poorly then they're not the issue.

Only way to tell is pull the coil out with the engine running to see if it makes a difference to the running. Don't pull the multiplied off the coil pull the full coil off the plug as disconnecting the coil can backfeed and blow the ignition driver in the ECM which isn't cheap!

NGK PFR6E10 - use these and only these. As above, can be had for £25-35 from Ebay and autofactors. Just don't buy them from Renault as they're stupidly over priced (unlike the 225/197 units which are £6 each).

Have you used the 16v engine loom that is from your car or did you use the Williams loom? If you used the Williams there's a potential problem straight away as the Mk1's had about 4 different loom specs prior to the MkI Ph3 I still think something is either not connected, has a poor connection...

Brake fluid should make the STOP and (!) illuminate/flash... This is oil pressure so check the connection, mechanically measure the actual pressure and repair as required as Danny said above.

Check your earth's to the gearbox and engine... Something isn't connected properly. Mick

Any idea on the actual codes as descriptions can be vague and/or incorrect? From the descriptions above you have a fault with the brake pedal switch (common and a new switch is required now) and then there's an issue with the CAN Out from one of the modules... Possibly linked to the ABS issue...

SERV tells you that there is something wrong that isn't effecting the driveability of the car and it's not a service light. It really needs proper diagnostics to tell you what/why it's on. Mick

Why not put the original plugs back in and see if it cures the problem? For the record, Renault engines, especially the 16v units are not supposed to be "tappy" per say.

Exactly the same as any other 1.4 16v K4J engine... Belts, major service and a general look over for leaks.

It really needs CLIP time mate as they give so much more info with regards to DCi faults and engine statuses than any other device on the market that I've seen. Personally I think you may be right with it being a fuel pressure related issue and don't believe anything P code related on these...

Compression test followed by confirmation of correct timing would be my route. Mick

Redo everything he undid... Failing that, bring it to me in Nottingham and I'll re-construct the loom for you.

You will do it with a jack yes but it won't be a cake walk. I find it easier if the entire engine comes forward an inch or two... To do that it needs to come up (or down) first.

If you're doing it on your driveway enjoy, it's "tight"

There's not much there to go on mate, any more info? Mick

CR is totally different between the turbo and non-turbo

Another reason is because if the belt run fails or jumps (due to say incorrect tension or general belt fatigue) it normally ends up wrapped around the bottom sprocket... Which also slips the timing and bends valves.

Cleaning the TB *may* help the low idle issue (and its good practise to keep it clean so won't hurt) but the 3k peak at startup makes me think you may have another issue such as a minor inlet leak. Any other symptoms such as a blowing noise, poor mpg, etc? Mick

Looks like a bolt leak to me but as Fred said above, you won't know until you take the upper plenum off for an inspection (I bet the dephaser solenoid seal is leaking to). Take off the upper plenum, clean the entire area then one at a time, undo the cover bolt(s) degrease/seal and replace then...

Someone spent all their pocket money on that! Deffo a repost but I never get bored of it... Shame its not in a Retro Renault though :( Sent from my BlackBerry 9900 using Tapatalk

It'll be a second hand TB and pedal. I've just replace a pedal on a '53 1.2 16v today at a cost of £54 including the VAT. Have you considered that maybe the used parts you have fitted may also be fekk'd? You really should have the car properly diagnosed rather than guess and then spunk your...

I guess ultimately the car is going to need inspection as the tensioner issue is another highly probable cause.