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Yes, very much so!

Ahh, that's different then and now sounds more like a leak to the inlet track or an idle control fault which on the 1.2 units can be either stepper motor or valve controlled. Ideally though it's gonna need a proper look I'm afraid. Mick

Faulty sensors rarely throw up lights, they just give the ECU incorrect readings which it uses to make decisions about how to run the engine.

Bring it in and I'll pull the dash to bits for you (again). This afternoon would be good

Sounds like a worn key blade or ignition barrel rather than the immobiliser. Mick

John, the hot start issue sounds like a CPS and that would also account for the poor/rough running when warm also but the imob issue could be something else completely and without seeing it I couldn't offer anymore. Mick

There is no adjustment... It will be a faulty sensor causing it. You could try servicing the TB or replacing Lamdas and CTS but I'd recommend a proper check using the live data.

It's on our website - www.diamondmotors.co.uk

Not without plugging it in to CLIP I'm afraid, no

It's 100% NOT the seats. I don't know what that code is but the description "drivers airbag circuit 2" is to do with the steering wheel airbag which is showing an open circuit. Most likely cause is the clock-ring or squib having a damaged track so replace it and the problem will go away. Mick

Bring it in to me and I'll sort it for you mate - will cost you £25. Mick

I've had this before on a K4J powered Megane II... Turned out to be the MAP sensor but I'm not saying it will be in your case and really you should have it properly looked at.

Needs plugging in mate. Suspect a fuelling fault

There's an ODBII dongle product floating around that is vin coded and simply inputs the bypass code for you. This only works on the older generation vehicles it is probably worth noting and will only work on the vehicle it has the vin programmed in to memory to stop thieves rolling round with...

I've just scrapped a mint 449 16v bonet and spoiler to. I think I may have another spoiler in my touring car spares pile though. Has the muppet drilled the rear hatch to fit the rear spoiler?

Jesus Christ, what's that bonet vent and spoiler all about?

Pics... It's not a burgundy ph2 Karrman is it?

Okay, firstly check all the engine bay earth's... Secondly, check the solenoid control wire on the back of the starter as these are a historical weak point on Renault. Mick

JB3/JC5 are essential the same casings. The JB3 uses spherical bearings in the differential where as the JC5 uses tapered roller units which handle the load better. They both fit any F-series block

okay, when you "move it forward and backwards" is it in gear?

Yep as it coincides with a visit I have planned to a factory to see my 19's sister car. The wife isn't keen on going so I was gonna stay with my friend Mael. Will be a good weekend for sure especially as it's gonna be predominantly clubs and club cars from all over Europe.

Is it normal heating controls or regulated (digital display or twisty dials)? Mick

Any interest in this on here? Looks like a spiffing excuse to fly the flag http://www.festivalrenault.com/

Sodemo pushed a fairly reliable 320bhp from the F7R NA for the

If it were mine, i'd de-alarm it and add a cheap TOAD or CLIFFORD alarm to it to work the central locking for you.

What car is it please? The red LED staying lit is saying there's a fault with one of the main systems in the car. Could be wiring, could be a box of tricks but it deffinately won't be the starter motor. Sounds like a UCH fault or wiring to it to me. Check your battery condition and terminals...

Becasue the speed limits in the UK prohibit speeds like this? What colour is the smoke? I suspect it'll be ring damage

It depends on your vehicle but generally a Clio II Ph1 single button is about £165 from us... Renault will be a fair bit more.

Lamda is but one of many sensor the ECM uses to decide how to run the engine and any sensor not functioning within spec will cause it to make decisions based on incorrect values which results in poor running. Yours may be faulty but then again it might not so changing any of these sensors...

Not really no unless the sounder has a key switch. The only option you have is to remove it fully... its normally a dealer fit option on cars of this age so you'd need to remove the sounder, the control box and most importantly remove the wiring in full making sure to repair all of the interupts...