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Don't forget to mark them up or make note of which injector goes in which cylinder as they are coded.

The K4M uses the pencil type ignition coils not the block type as found on the 2.0 setup. If you fitted some cheap auto-factor/eBay crap its possible the coils themselves are faulty to. If it were in my workshop i'd scope the ignition drivers and then as Danny said above move on to the...

At least i don't have girls wrists lolz I am just looking at my belt prices properly this week and im sure we can do the K4M with water pump for less than £400. Mick

No adapters exist mate im afraid... it would have to be a complete multiplug swap and repath of each wire back there.

I use the same system Fred and he's right on the price but the Motrio equiv part can be had for under £50 if you don't mind waiting 3-5days for it to arrive. Genuine Renault, type approved, just in a brown box not white. Mick

Yes it can be done BUT there is a fair bit of wiring work to do as the plugs and pin-out is different. Most of what you need is there though.

Renault will only sell you the complete mirror assembly i'm afraid however, the equiv spec thermistor can be purchased from Maplins for a few pounds. Mick

Did this on my Laguna GT today in just under 2hrs... love how much room there is on those compared to the Megs.

On these its not essential that the pump be changed as its not timing belt driven plus its rare they fail. Its your call though if you want to use it as an excuse to try knocking the owner down. Just look for timing belt and aux. belt kit changes in that history (if any). Mick

As above, stat stuck open is the most likely cause.

Start by getting it checked for faults mate and make a note of any codes begining with DF and we can go from there. The flashing light and refusal to start was possibly caused by a low battery voltage though. Mick

I'm calling in to collect some inlet bits from Matt that he's sourced for me.

It'll be a wheel sensor at fault. Really the person that code read it should've consulted the live data then checked to see if there was any kind of signal from the current setup. If there was but it was jumpy a straight swap for a new sensor will cure it. If not then a quick check for...

I don't think its just the Stat Edde as he said the heaters hot air output went cold when the gauge shot up. If the stat locked up the heater would've stayed hot and the temp gauges range wouldn't have suddenly peaked as he described. Sounds more like a cooling circuit issue to me such as a...

Because the ECM will cancel the MIL after 30 fault free consecutive starts. Some people see this as a cheap way to turn the light off without having to get the car plugged in but it often does more harm than good to the starting circuit and what they don't know is what caused the light to come...

I'm not singling you out but you raise some good points. Firstly, you say you're not wanting to pay someone £400 for something you can do yourself. The job normally takes a lot longer as the engine isn't on a bench. It is primarily this time that you the customer pays for as its not a quick...

Depends, i've got a k12 Micra in at 9am with a charging problem so depending on what exactly is wrong with it (and if she turns up) I prob won't be there until 12.30-13.00

Me to Tony, i'll see you there.

It'll be a Cup-packed FF or an FF with Cup badges but even still, no need to take the light out to do the bulbs.

possibly the actuator yes but until you test it yourself you won't know.

But even the refurbs aren't that bad (are they)?

Fek, i'd be pissed then cos they're far from cheap and its got to be one of two things: 1 - The UCH isn't the actual problem and they should check further into the wiring. 2 - There is an issue with the car that is eating UCH's... normally water ingress due to blocked drains or a leak at "R67"...

Brand new UCH's or your original UCH repaired by say BBAReman?

they do run close yes but i'm not sure what the actual dimension is. The older Renaults didn't run the carrier and opted to have a straight run but for one reason or another that design was changed. I've got to ask, you are using a genuine Renault shaft aren't you? Just be sure the main bearing...

That's at testers discretion and personally I don't like it... Broken coil = spring rate knackered.

Bumper off to change dipped beam bulbs on a CUP? Mentalists unless you've got hands like shovels! As above, reach in and remove the caps, disconnect the wiring then unclip the bulb (Making note of its orientation so not to fit the new bulb upside down). Mick

If you've bought a pair then it won't matter but if you've bought just the one you will no doubt notice the difference.

Right, lets try this again (Just lost my last attempt at replying to this)... ... It could be something as simple as a fuse, a broken wire or the actuator itself but it could also be the UCH at fault. There are some checks you can do yourself to rule some bits out so if you're handy with the...

Also you need to get one from a similar type of vehicle... and by this I don't mean just one off another Clio II. Whilst they are visually the same (and use the same pin out config) they are programmed differently depending on the vehciles type code and equipment spec. Some have rear inertia...

I have seen the stub axle/bearing carrier coming loose from the back of the block on a couple of occasions which has caused the inner boot to become damaged.