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When do I start? Nick172Cup

Thanks for your comments chaps, but...... Sold today for asking price. Spot on, yet again.

I have a 172 subframe also mate. Yours for a beer.... Normally goes to the scrappy so better it gets used...,, Will do the whole subframe' Arb if required. PM me for my number

I have an ARB from a Ph1 172 if they're the same? Only in Chertsey too. Yours for a tenner collected.

Now that, is awesome

It takes something VERY special to make me look twice now.

Yeah, it's not rocket science Martin.

As Dan said.

This is what I was getting at. Bushes wear out. That's a given. If you get the same life out of another set of genuine ones, I bet they we'll outlast the car

All the same.

Sigh. (; I'm used to heartache with your car.

How old are they on your old bushes?! Powerflex are massive overkill for a road car ino

Exhausts are a c**t on the floor always. I'd much rather spend an hour phoning round for a friendly garage that will lend you a ramp for an hour rather than an hour under the car swearing.

Yep. One hand on the wing out flat, one on the bumper pulling and it'll come off. I like the design tbh. On my own cars, i never bother putting the bolt back in there because the clip's so strong. lol.

Top man! CS FTW.

Why bother? Just use OEM.

As in the top mount cap in the engine bay? 21mm swan neck spanner with an Allen key holding the damper rod still, assuming you're on standard dampers

If you don't know already, then it's not important.

Yep. Ph1 and Ph2 differs. Throttle body connection for one.

Whatever you've got left over, take a pic of and i'll tell you where it comes from. Can see if they're important or not. lol

Yep, that looks like the earth to the back of the gearbox. Held to the box over the back with a short 13mm head bolt. Leave that undone and it won't start and the dash will go mental. Yep, should be a bolt in that gearbox mount. It's identical to the one on the otherwise pal

For that driveshaft, it's just not slotted in properly. Use a hammer and a lump of wood against the bearing. One or two taps and it'll slot right in. Remove the subframe nut clip completely. Then simply hold the nut with a socket/spanner while you tighten. No big deal on either problem.

Hi.

That's the gear linkage! Shouldn't be affecting the subframe in this job!

It's fine to drop the subframe a certain amout while the rack's still bolted up, just not all the way or you'll damage the column.

Yep, your attitude is half the problem,

Undertray off. Disconnect lower rad hose into a bucket. Remove reservoir cap. Disconnect thermostat. Could probably remove bleed screw to do same job. Refit lower rad hose once drained. Out thermostat back on. Fill up, with bleed screw out. Wait for coolant to come out of bleed screw...

Discs- check the edges of the pad mating face for a lip. If there's a decent sized lip, get them changed.

[QUO TE=Chapperz;10380476]All these guides already exist. I used one on here to do my discs and I've seen a cambelt/aux belt guide. Flushing the coolant is just as simple as taking the cap of reservoir, disconnecting the lower rad house letting it all drain out and then reconnect and fill to...

Easiest way would be find a friendly tester. Lol