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You've nailed it pretty much. The engine's already fairly well tuned so it's harder to get power out of it. Plus the parts to do it aren't as popular as they are on for example civics, fiestas etc.
Everything that gives you big gains (cams, RS2 etc) tends to end up costing a grand or more.
As above, it's due to the dimming circuit. There's always a few volts going through there even with a conventional bulb. LEDs also react faster than conventional bulbs hence the slightly erratic dimming.
However a conventional bulb needs a lot more juice to start emitting light than an LED...
I've had 52mpg out of mine coming back from Exeter. And when I checked the figures the computer throws out it's pretty spot on, certainly within a few MPG.
They can chew through fuel if something's wrong though, usually the pre-cat lambda sensor.
I picked up a puncture the night before driving to scotland.
Give the wheel nuts a quick check to make sure they're still tight. We do that before every race and I do it every week, but obviously with the rate you'll be racking up miles it's a good thing to check beforehand.
Or even better in the stereo :rasp:
It's a nice idea, and looks well executed, but personally I wouldn't do it as I value that vent as the one in the middle doesn't seem to come far across enough to get me in the face, whilst the window side one does. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking you...
Well the reason for it is to get the dials working with a computer interface for simracing. The circuit board in the photo feeds the gauges the appropriate signals.
So far as I can tell the only light fed by CAN signals rather than a direct feed is the ABS light. The dash computer info is also...
The 172 cups are specifically excluded in the MOT through the above document.
The rear brakes are pretty much isolated by tying off the brake bias valve. This is to stop them locking under heavy braking due to the lack of ABS. Rear wheels locking = very, very bad.
Show the tester the above...
The fog light flashing with other lights is a symptom of corroded contacts on the tail lights. Unscrew the cluster from the car, pull out the connector and clean up the contacts with a needle file.