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Valves are normally around £9 each... times that by 16 and you get £144! Rough gestimate - £850-900 to do the job properly Mick

The top covers do indeed double up as the cam carrier so to remove it you will need to remove the cambelt and the camshaft pulleys to and for that you will need access to some special tools which we use for carrying out the timing belt service. Also, when replacing the cover you must first...

Silly thing to suggest Andy but I've seen it happen before and it gives similar issues, especially if some numpty has been playing about before... ... Check the 10mm securing bolts on both the PAS pump pulley and water pump pulley. If they're loose they flap about and give a noise which varies...

Did one of these myself for a customer... naughty conversion and bags of fun until you reach a corner then the "Scenic" bit kicks in :S Buy a complete F4R-736 from a Clio Sport and put it in on the Scenic F4R ancillary bracketry and it'll be good. You will need the Clio Sport ECM (Which will...

Julpier I hope Fred... Pints of that and ladies in red lit windows makes for a pretty much perfect evening

Ph1 and Ph2 lower spacer is the same iirc as the front/upper spacer/bearing Int.Dia. is different in the ph1 kit

So this car of yours has been coming to a stop/stalling out when you approach junctions and it has been "Diagnosed" by the RAC as a "Speed Sensor" which you trust? :rolleyes: Now I've not seen your car so haven't seen the codes or the live data BUT that to me sounds more like an idle air...

Wipers are UCH controlled so the clicking you're hearing is the UCH trying to do something. The lack of wipers problem is either with the UCH output to the motor or the motor itself. Mick

Try adjusting the dash illumination adjuster switch from "DIM" to "BRIGHT" ;) Mick

I had a Lupo in the workshop today with exactly the same problem... no start, no diagnostics possible as no power to the port, etc - 5A fuse, job done! Its the normal excuses really: Kit can't talk to the computer... ... Must be computer that's fucked! Ben's a good lad and has helped me out...

I'm in Nottingham, Danny @ 519 is in Bedford... we're both fairly trustworthy ;) Mick

Yep, use all the bracketry from your old engine and swap it over to the new block

s**t, that must be fast!

Okay, lets start simple and work on the ignition system only at this point: Go back to the original plugs that it seemed to run on - Does it work again? Compression Test - Results good or bad? Continuity check trigger lines from ECM to Coil Pack and/or Scope ignition drivers - All okay? Mick

Sounds like an air leak to me. Has anything been done to it recently?

It really needs looking at to say where the oil has come from.... and urgently. It could be an oil seal, dephaser solenoid, cracked block, etc

The Clio II RS ARB is 25mm OD Jaff. Cna't help on the wishbones i'm afraid Mick

Deffo shouldn't be slipping George... have you spilt anything on it recently? Mick

fairly cheap at around £20 I believe or you can use one off any other Renault as they've never really changed the design on the petrol engines.

Then appologies, I didn't see that - Most likely cause if the oil pressure switch itself as its very common.

Don't take this the wrong way but it sounds very much to me like you don't really give a toss about your car - This is a very important light and it will not be a battery issue so ignore the warning of a potential oil pressure problem at your own peril (and that of your wallet)! It could turn...

There is a very good chance that the vehicle has more than one oil leak

It could also be the main control relay... seen a few of these give up also. In truth you're not going to know exactly what it is without plugging it in to see if the ECM is seeing rotation when you crank it or not. Mick

And that's why you never rely upon fault codes... always confirm the fault with Live data and actual component testing. Proberbly a wiring fault on that circuit causing the fault code to come up with faulty sensor.

It'll be the H02 sensor for sure... most liekly the heater element starting to give up. It might not actually give any fault codes though so don't pay for someone to read the codes and say "Nowt wrong with it" as it will need a trained eye looking at the H02 live data to finger.

No such thing as "Just a plain key" anymore, it will have an S4 chip built in to it... how else do you think the imobilliser system is deactivated when you use it? Has the key ever worked with starting the car before? You never did answer that. Mick

To my knowledge there is no such thing as an "Engine Tilt" sensor. There is a Accel/Yaw sensor but without proper diagnostics you won't know what it needs.

Snap... I hate it when 'they' do that. Jonny, I use a soft jawed vice just to hold the profiles solidly in place whilst you use an air gun or breaker bar... sometimes, when thread lock has been used, its the only way. Mick

Its normal for them to do this a little as they never run 100% true due to the assembly design but how much "Wobble" are we talking about; More or less than a few mm? Mick

Its suffered something at the hands of complete moron(s) that tried to use the camshaft locking tool as a camshaft pulley imob tool, hence the damage to them... see this all the time on 1.4/1.6 16v units that use a similar setup. Still, all done now and should be good for another 5 years service.