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thats how I undid it, with a bendy end ;) but don't think i'll be able to get the right tightness on it.
Danny you saying that the bar which supports the alternator to the engine can be removed without compromising the aux belt?
the two bolts furthest left as you look at it. Very awkward to loosen I found, so replacing them will be interesting. Not the best space to get to them really.
dodgy that mate. to be far, the menz pads don't feel as well made, but that's rediculous. I would be celebrating that I didn't go onto the paint with the backing plate. That's when tears start :(
not really danny, its the alternator bracket in the way. So have to go in at an angle. Presumably you can't remove this without messing with the belts?
True, but with the eye bolt plates you can at least remove the hooks when you've finished and cover them up (replace carpet etc). Not hard to weld on really.
bit less weight to lug around ;). It controls the flow through the second caf. Will make no difference to performance really. Not even sure if it does anything in the first place
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4XWOpLIm3E
Show's how much it does :S
can you not just put the rear attachment onto the hole under the back seats, and attach 2 eye bolts under the seat towards the rear (if you want to hide them), or just attach them into the subframes on both sides.
It's not the side bolt I going to have issues with. It's the ones which are obscured by the alternator bracket. There are two of them at the top and bottom I think, drivers side. I jacked the engine up slightly on one side to get to the side one.
It's not this that gets in the way really...
Mine are RS stamped, so the inlets weren't too bad at that end. Surely correctly matching up the plenum and inlet join (which were shocking) would make just as much difference?
Mine are in the process of being ported out. I took them to CNC in stockport. Was talking to the guy who knows his stuff, and he was saying that there isn't actually much point in porting the lower part of the inlet manifold (bit that matches up to the head) unless you're getting the head itself...
Is there an easier way of doing this? Was a pain in the arse to get off. There are two nuts right under the alternator bracket which were a b**ch to undo. I'm just worried i'll not be able to tighten them up enough. Any tips?
If you remove the engine mount, look in the hole and there is a nut which holds on the weight. If you've got a FF 182 you'll need to remove the bumper and headlight to get it out (aircon gets in the way). It supposed to be for vibration reduction, but people who have removed it say it's not made...
the twisted one is on the 182 mate. Don't know where the other goes? won't fit in the same place though.
Edit - the yellow one is for between the gearbox and engine according to the description
The best thing to do is warm the clay up before hand (either hot water, or just holding it in the hand). Then make sure you're using correct lube. Lube is key with this process really. You can't really use too much to be honest. If the clay sticks to the paint that means you're not using enough...
they have great customer service. Mine was broken when i first got it.lol. They sent out a new one and picked up the broken one within days. Fantastic communication. If it goes again i'd send it back to them no questions asked. Out of warranty now though i think, but you've give me hope :D