Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Do your research, spend plenty of time looking at cars, get someone to mechanically check it over before buying. I've (touches wood) never had any major issues with any of the second hand cars I've bought.
OMG, a 2nd hand car suffering wear and tear? Whatever next?!
What do people do to these cars? I've had 5 RS's, current one is the oldest (x reg). The only non-consumable cost (ie brakes, tyres etc) thats gone is the aux belt pulley. And that's despite 25k miles a year, about 9 track days over...
Trophy suspension settings are listed here
http://www.readyforthetrack.co.uk/tag/hr/
Are the figures for toe-out on front, 1mm total, or 1mm each side?
Why are people so unwilling to try anything new? Here's how the tyres ended up in the massive German tyre test.
In Germany annual tyre tests are the norm. Auto Zeitung is Germanys oldest and most respected trade magazine and they have just published their 2009 tyre test.
The results are...
The optimum revs to change up is different for each gear. On standard engines power falls away after 6.5k iirc. I love the notion of "it said so in the manual, so it must be true". In the brochure the steering wheel is called leather.
There are several tyres out there that outperform the Michelin pe2 on the Clio. The 2 best I've used have been the Goodyear f1 gsd3 and the hankook v12 evo, which are roughly half the price of pe2 and grippier in all conditons. Pzero aren't bad, but from memory wore quite quickly. T1r aren't one...
It's not a shiflt light. A shift light activates at the optimum change point. This activates just before the limiter. You'll go quicker changing up slightly before the light.