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would not recommend it as if you screw it up, replacements are expensive.
BUT, this is normally done using your oven. Stick em in and gradually increase temperature checking the lights every so often.
OBVIOUSLY remove the ballast pack and all the rubber you can before you start and don't be...
Have a look at your track rod ends and try to release one. You may be lucky but they are normally rust welded on and require some pretty extreme measures to remove them. worst case you could need a new rack
i want to know what management it runs on? as i understand it, they are direct injection. normally that means that you dont have an "normal" injection pattern, you may have a few short bursts for economy or just retarded injection timing.
didnt know of any management that could handle that...
yeah the Ktec one is right. and the opinions are not mine, just the impression I get from others who have experienced both setups. ;)
Personally, i've got my widetrack ready to fit (with polybushes), but I won't bother with a willy subframe.
I've never driven both. I'd guess winston probably has. The subframe does seem to be the only bit of the willy no1 really wants though (correct me if i'm wrong). Think people are just dissapointed with the added weight and minimal handling advantages.
One of these was going on williams clio...
willy subframe is stiffer, but heavier. The general feeling amoungst MK1 owners seems to be "do not want" lol
That widetrack deal is fair, you may be able to use your original track rod ends if you can free them up.
you don't need a guide tbh. It's an easy job apart from free-ing up the bolts.