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😳 it looks older than my 2 year one 😅

Buy PS5's, cheaper and better. Win all round.

£648 delivered.

How old is that aux belt mate?

White will be ET38. You can order the Anthracite in ET38 now too, I got some recently direct from Speedline.

Reset is my regular stuff, expensive but it cleans well and foams up nicely if that's what you're after.

Will probably be under the cover like you say. It'll be a round plug which take a square 8mm internal.

Make sure you clean this up and grease it.

Yeah they're really handy. Those rivet gun type ones are ok for small and aluminium nuts, but you'd need the grip of a gorilla to do thicker metals 😂 The long arm scissor action type ones are better for that.

Somewhere around £3k sounds reasonable.

Gen 2 Mid Torque as a good all-rounder, fits where the big boy doesn't and has more power than a compact. Or buy a 3/8 Stubby as well to compliment it and become part of team red. Doesn't have to be this kit specifically, just a general idea. It's available in 3/8 and 1/2 drive...

Tunisian Pudding now

They're the wrong plugs as well. Ideally want NGK PFR6E-10

If you're looking to do longer track sessions, it might be worth looking at a small 13 or 16 row cooler and run it with a thermostatic sandwich plate.

Flashing EML is almost always injectors. It's possible that Clio ones are just as shite as Megane 225/R26 ones 😂 Try getting them cleaned.

Mine sees anywhere from 80-95 on the road and up to 130c on track. No issues in nearly 10 years of ownership.

This. 99% of the time you're not braking hard enough to activate abs anyway. Can probably count on one hand the amount of times it's kicked in for me on the 182 in the 9 years I've had it.

Get some new wires re-pinned with the same ones that are in the plug and then splice those into the wiring after you've cut off the bad bits. Use heat shrink butt crimp connectors if you can't solder very good. Nothing worse than a dry joint. Or if soldering, use heat shrink with the glue...

@RuskiWeldFab

What's been chewing at them 😂

You'll be paying more for the Cup if the dealer has their prices right. Both cost the same to maintain, although the Cup is cheaper and simpler on the cam belt/aux belt change with the lack of air con.

Crack the nut off and then remove the clip securing it to the car. Should be able to spin the line off by hand then.

Not a bad idea that.

Any links to a kit that'll adapt to the header tank to pump it up?

Give the disc a tap with a hammer from behind all the way around. Are the brake line stuck in the caliper or on the car?

@massivewangers is over that way, he might know.

:( Gutted mate, no doubt it'll be back stronger than ever. I've noticed a slight coolant loss on the 182 recently too. Last time it was a small hole in the rad, but it's been fine since that was done about a year ago :unsure: Can't see any leaks anywhere, just need to have a look around the...

Odd one. The light usually self clears with abs faults when the fault is fixed.

On a scale of 1-10, how well do you look after your gear? Sounds like it could do with a blast out with an air line once a day/week.

Find some 197/200 pistons, job done. Slightly higher compression than 172/182 pistons.