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Gyeon Rim is what I use. Meant to hold up better to heat too with it being used on track.

A lot easier with the engine out yeah.

Remember to do a quick test fire at the ground after you've stuck one of the nozzles in. I've seen them not click in properly and then fire out at the car. They'll put your window through or a big dent in the panel!

Yeah you'll need the 60mm hubs if you're doing a complete swap.

Yeah just fit a new hub setup or just the flange itself but that will require a new bearing and having a big press. 172 hubs will fit a 182 as long as yours is not a cup packed model.

Fitting the actual plate to the oil filter housing is easy. If you can do an oil filter change then you can fit one. You'll need some basic wiring knowledge to wire the power in though and also somewhere to mount the gauge itself, usually in a pod mount or cutting somewhere in the dash 👀...

Not sure where that's leaking from then... @NorthloopCup

There's no oil where it joins the block... Sure it's not your rear main seal on the crank?

Fit a digital gauge and use a sandwich plate between the oil filter for the sensors.

I have some like that on my Ramair too.

Will be an earth as you say. Nothing wrong with those voltage readings.

This. Keep the 3 working ones as spares.

I've got the extended reach ratchet and it's really handy for getting into places like that.

Some engines just are. Good valve seating and piston rings.

Anything over 190 is decent really. Yours is probably better than factory 😂

Excellent compression that 200+ 👌🏻

The 3/8" fuel ones have over 300Nm of torque, which is adequate for most jobs, even hub nuts as Matt demonstrated. If you're doing big bolts all the time, you'll want the 1/2" M18 tbh.

120-150 minutes? :ROFLMAO:

2-2.5° would be nice.

I think the service book changed from 5 years to 3 because of early failures.

That's the thing these days. It's cheaper to change the engine than it is to do the belts 😅 That's if you can do the work yourself that is.

Usage is irrelevant really. Still go off the usual 5 years or 72k miles. and 3 years or 36k for the aux belt.

They're not much use with a string and a rule 😂

Should have said.... That's if it would have ran 185 at RSTuning. Has it had a cambelt since the previous owner?

If it ran 185 at EFI and only made 190 on bodies, I'd be a bit disappointed tbh. Would usually be looking at a 10-15bhp gain and usually more with cams.

Yeah mine is around 3 degree of caster with no adjustments done to it.

It's 32 minutes off from perfectly straight basically. Imagine 60 minutes being 1 degree, so yours is basically half a degree off. That equates to about 3mm on a 15-16" wheel.

That's not the worst I've seen. Could easily correct that with shims.

Vapour blasting closes up the pores in the surface too, so they'll last longer before going white/corroded again. Just give them a wipe over with WD-40 or ACF50 once in a while.

Has it seized solid?