Search results

Something like a -6AN size hose should be adequate.

A bit of wood on the jack will help spread the load. Support it on the side closest to the mount.

I've been in that car on track and it's really well prepared. While it may not be worth quite that much to most of us, it's certainly had the time and money put into it over the years. It's definitely a £5k plus car, no questions asked.

Good luck getting the sensor out from the top. Ideally need to remove the hub and smash it out from underneath. Don't worry about the bolt, the new sensor won't move anywhere.

Chances are they're not magnetic which means they weren't picked up by the magnet inside the box. It also means it's likely to be synchros in that case because they're brass.

What is it with powdercoaters recently? A mate is having issues with a place he uses, similar cracking to yours actually.

Tried the RSTuner brake bleed function out for the first time on @Niall 182. It could have told us that the left and right calipers were as you look from the front... When it said Rear Right, you would assume it meant driver's side but it's actually the passenger side lol. I now know why it...

Caught me by surprise the first time 😅

75Nm according to the specs 😂 If you go full trigger it'll give a bit of a kick at the end and then cut the power.

The newer ratchets are pretty powerful. I broke a T40 torx bit with one when it reached its torque cut off 😂

What next?

No worries.

Air will find a way past if there are any sealing issues. These are the typical things you'll see during the test if there's a problem. Intake valve : Air whistling out of the intake, carburetor or throttle body indicates a leak at the intake valve. Exhaust valve : Air heard hissing out of...

You need to do a leakdown test as I mentioned in a previous post. It uses compressed air and forces it into the cylinder. Any air leak would be heard as a hissing air sound from a particular area.

If it drives fine then the tester must off because it wouldn't run very well at all with those compression numbers.

Mine is just the plastic cooling fan at the back making a ticking sound. No anvil movement at all.

That doesn't sound as bad as the other one. I'll check mine, although it's a different model to yours.

Beaniesport near Northampton or Sean Edwards in Shirley, Solihull are the closest i can think of.

Why can't they keep it simple and keep the wires the same pair of colours for each.

Wire them up as they are now :unsure: Or have you taken the plugs off already?

4bar or nearly 60psi is seriously low. I assume it runs absolutely terrible? A compression test will only tell you that you have low compression, it doesn't tell you where from. For that you need to do a leakdown test. That will tell you if it's piston rings or valves.

Cheap injectors are a good possibility.

Always are, especially with track use.

Nice. Mine were both sheared off so I couldn't be bothered to drill out.

Not really possible, the cap isn't fully sealed so some fluid would just overflow out. Like you would see on track when your cap is wet with fluid.

Need to get the live data checked to see what the sensors are reading.

The new one will be almost as tight going in as the old one coming out. Both of mine broke the bolt off so are only held in by their interfacing fit.

Be lucky to get the bolt out tbh. Neither of mine are bolted in, the sensor is that tight in there it's not moving anywhere.

Only thing I can think of is to try a brake reservoir cap off another Clio.

4.8mm X 9mm flanged head peel rivets. No need for washers on the back then.