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You can swap the clocks over but the mileages stay on their respective clock unfortunately, not sure about repairing your existing one though. I keep a spare clock set to use for testing as most have now been tampered with at some point

I haven't used the type you've linked (mine have aircraft buckle that turns) but I know of a few people locally that do use them and they seem ok, the link you've included though is for short 2 seat sports cars though so you'd probably want the longer ones they do instead, especially if they're...

Bank 1 sensor is pre cat, not sure if it's the correct part off top of my head though

Don't suppose you have a part number?

There's a few common places fo water leaks, sunroof as you say is one if the most. Others include 3 drains from the scuttle panel, there's 2 bungs in the rear panel by lights that can and do leak although you'd be able to trace these forwards. I even found a 8mm hole in my bulkhead where I...

I hate to say it but it sounds like your UCH (controls virtually every function that isn't engine related) is playing up. I've had this issue on previous clios

Don't suppose your near Wiltshire are you? More than happy to lend a hand if you are (don't have CLIP but do have diagnostics that will give Renault specific codes)

We've all been there (my daughter is only 8 so that'll be in a few years yet) and just had to have something, my Mrs bought a dci with no interior as a cheap work hack and gave me the pleasure of doing a complete swap, dashboard as well :smile: and my sport is purely a track toy so there's not a...

They should just plug and play as long as nothing has been butchered underneath previously, you'd have more issues if you were doing it the other way around (1.2 interior into a sport) as some of the 'lower spec' models don't always have the same amount of sensors but in your case they're...

That'll be fine, just make sure the stand is pretty central across there as it'll support better then

Only where it's held against the subframe (where the two bolts are virtually next to each other) or where @jesus has used arrows, basically you need something that's more structural that the sills/floorpan and won't bend with the pressure of the stands

I normally put them where the subframe meets those plates held on by 4 bolts in your pic, never had a problem myself

Could be but the more common place is the plastic/rubber boot stops, there's one each side roughly level with the rear lights The little bung as can be seen in the photo by the light, try re sealing these first

That's the one, though I thought there was a fancy name for it (I've been in work since 5am, and brain has just about shut down :) )

What about the stuff that's used on bike chains? Can't think of the name of it right now but might not come off when you drive

Non sport I assume? I bought a similar package for the mrs dci and after 4k miles everything seems ok still, although I haven't used the track rod ends yet so can't comment on their quality

I had to investigate a similar fault for a mate a while back, turned out the egg shaped gasket between the upper inlet and the breather plate was missing, looks like this

Checked the motors on the side of heater unit? I've seen some threads that mention the motors/spindles wear over time resulting in problems adjusting heat settings, would be worth a check to see

I'd imagine you'll need to swap to a lower spec heater setup as the climate ones use motors to operate everything whereas others use cables, I plan on doing this myself buy haven't gotten around to it yet so can't say for sure unfortunately

Yes they are oem quality :smile: providing they are febi bilstein (not so sure about the link for the gearbox side, but there are plenty of others available on the old bay of e) There is www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk which is useful, whether it's as good as the one you've linked above I...

2 pole push to make switch with a bracket to sit across the wheel would do it, that's all my momo effectively has, then wire into existing horn wiring

The yellow square plug works the stalk, the white plug is for the speakers and the black plug does power, memory, antenna etc

I'd take that extra peice of wiring loom out and try again, the cut wires look like they're speaker ones which wouldn't affect power

Fingers crossed indeed mate, take it slow and steady and you'll be fine, give all the bleed nipples a spray of some wd 40 first though, if they haven't been undone in a while its all too easy to round off the nut on them and then you're really stuck Ads

Yes technically you are correct, however there are many 'horror' stories of trying to get air out of abs pumps, I'm not am saying that is definitely the issue you have but if it is you probably won't get the air out without either a pressure bleeding unit or using Renault diagnostics. As for a...

Yes in a word, passenger/nearside

It sounds like air in the system to be honest (or rather in the abs pump) if there's no obvious leaks anywhere?

No reason why it can't be done at home, main thing to bear in mind is that you'll need to support the engine/gearbox whilst changing the mounts, gearbox side you'll need to remove battery first to get to it, drivers side it bolts into part of the top cambelt cover

Upper engine mount is a lot cheaper, haven't fitted mine yet though, and my original one is absolutely knackered so hard to tell what the difference would genuinely be, as whatever goes in should be a lot better than my current one

There's about 4mm difference on the bolt spacing for the hub to strut mounting (5mm on your sport setup and 58 on non sport I believe), I've never tried a sport spring on non sport shock so can't advise on fitment there though