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I couldn't agree more and it's great that you are bringing through a more cost effective start to motorsport. I've got a very good mate who's just starting out and it'll be ideal for him even if I can't compete myself
Thats understandable, it is still road legal (just) but virtually everything else has been binned. Are you only looking at a road going series?
Thanks Ads
i'd be interested but mine is virtually race prepped now, (and the form states road going with full interiors) ie no interior, fully caged, cut offs etc etc. Would this be too 'modified' ? sprints/autosolos are new to me
Apologies if this has been previously covered but taking the financial side of things out of the equation is there any real benifit to using camber bolts over adjustable bushes?
I was an apprentice many years ago for Mercedes and most suspension setups used eccentric bolts to adjust camber so...
As you said bud many heads are better than one, whilst being far from essential my Mrs picked me up a big plastic wheelie tub that's lockable (b&q jobbie I believe) to keep everything in, I find it comes in really handy
EDIT
Same as this
Mine was knocking horrendously at Combe, decided to bite the bullet and order one, especially as at the moment there on offer on the old ebay, there is still some movement from the upper mounts (will be doing these asap but apparently moving house is more important according to the mrs) but yeah...
I've just fitted the motorsport version of evol engineering's dogbone, it's made a huge difference IMO. My original one had a lot of play, exhaust was banging off subframe and gear changes weren't ideal.
Having changed it over there's no more knocking of the exhaust on subframe, gear changes...
I believe so yes, I don't have one in mine anymore. Probably best to go back to fuses and check them, I have seen a couple of fuses on other cars break and partially reconnect so they still work to a degree, had a transit do that with main ignition fuse, had everything working but it wouldn't...
The part at the bottom has a spring inside it and pushes in when you press the pedal. It also has a ratchet mechanism to set the correct distance, as a temporary measure to prove it's the switch pull the bottom but out on the ratchet and then put the switch back in, see if it clears the fault
Look behind the pedal towards the top where it pivots and you should see a plastic box with a wiring connector, normally they twist 90° and come out if their housing, swap over with new one and done
It looks just like this
So over a year down the line and having taken it out on track last month for the first time I guess a big update is due on here
A lot of what has been done wasn't photographed but basically the engine was swapped over and eventually passed its MOT at the end of May last year, and then stood...